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Rom to Lindesnes Fyr

Distance: 33km

A walk in the park. At least I thought so when I set sail at around 9. What a late start. I feel splendid as I navigate through Lyngdal then along windy, narrow and surprisingly busy roads.

It's then, when I somehow hit a wall. Going suddenly gets tougher. Some friendly locals, enjoying the sun on their veranda, invite me for a late breakfast at 11:30. A lovely gesture and a well needed boost.

Mid afternoon I reach Spangereid. One last ice cream stop and a visit to the cemetery to fill up my water bottle. Since it's quite late already, I will stay near the light house and want to make sure I have enough water.

The last 10 kilometers! Not too emotional. Only when I spot the lighthouse through a gap in the rocks my heart pumps a bit faster. I made it, well nearly.

Since the lighthouse and the area surrounding it are a museum, one has to pay to enter when it's open. It's not a lot, yet somehow feels wrong.

So I climb a nearby hill, cook my dinner (celebratory Mac'n'cheese), while watching over to the light house. Such a pretty view.

By 20:00 I make my way over to the Fyr, the lighthouse. Initially built in 1656, making it Norwegian's first one.

Finally there! Norge-på-langs officially completed!

It's an wonderful, interesting place with lots of history and things to check out. Eventually, the sun is setting. A surprisingly spectacular sunset and a magical end to my journey.

I put my sleeping right next to the lighthouse. A sheltered spot with amazing views. Can't get any better.

A Swiss family is hanging around as well,celebrating our Swiss National Day, singing the anthem. Feels like being home. 

Eventually, they leave, I fall asleep quickly. Only wake up once. The fyr's light beam is spectacular under a wonderful sky full of stars.

Back to sleep. A deep sleep and I even sleep through sunrise and wake up to a steel blue sky. Some more photos and while I am typing these lines, my coffee is brewing next to me.

I take it slowly. I won't get a ride out of here, Norway's southernmost point, anytime soon anyway.

And where to? Well north,obviously. And then... I will see. 

Gletnesvatnet to Rom

Distance: 38km

After a wonderfully calm night with a good sleep and a black tea, I walk my first couple of steps on a stunningly beautiful morning.

It's all road. Initially quite back roads but mainly a, at time, busy main road. I remain on this road, following a river, for over thirty kilometers. Easy navigation.

I stop at a nice waterfall for lunch, at a road side shop for ice cream and coffee to go. Walking goes smooth and I am well on track to reach my goal for today, Lyngdal, in the late afternoon.

Until... Until I start talking to two cyclists on the road. Long story short, one thing leads to another, and I get invited to one of the cyclist's house. His daughter is celebrating here 22nd birthday and the whole family is attending.

A wonderful evening. Delicious and a shear amount of food, a very interesting and intimate insight into a Norway's family live, a hot shower, my washing done, a real bed,...

I could go on and on but it go late yesterday. 2 in the morning actually and I am still in bed the following morning as I am typing this. Still a bit tired after a short night but incredibly happy and thankful.

Shortly, I will head down to meet some of the family for breakfast. Energy, for my last day on the trail. I know, after last evenings great memories, it will be a wonderful day. 

Lindesnes, here I come! 

Åseral to Gletnesvatnet

Distance: 30km

A long night with little sleep. The locals kept on talking until early in the morning. Not loud but still making sleeping difficult. At least they keep the fire going throughout the night so I have a nice warning fire to wake up to.

Since I have got tons of food, I cook myself a porridge before climbing down the steep hill back to the town, where I hit the road.

These road walks give me time to think, to plan. I still have a month in Norway. What am I going to do with my time? So many options. I can't find the right one. There's no rush though. And tomorrow's another day.

After a bad night's sleep, going is generally tougher than normal. So I instantly and spontaneously decide to call it a day onxe I walk past a fishing shelter. It's huge, it's perfect to stay for the night. Great views and plenty of driftwood for a nice little fire.

For most of the evening, I have company of a cat. It's very friendly but terribly hungry. I feel a bit sorry that all I can offer are some bland, boring oatmeals, which isn't even exactly healthy.

Time passes by quickly. After a swim and warming up by the fire, I slip into my sleeping bag,keeping my fingers crossed for a good night's sleep. 

Stemtjonn to Aseral (Tippin Hut)

Distance: 38km

After a pleasantly warm and surprisingly calm night, I take my sweet time packing and leaving - enjoying my last couple of minutes in the mountains.

And sure enough, after just a couple of hundred meters, I descend steeply down into the valley. A quick ending of my walk in the mountains. Ha det bra, mountains. Bye bye mountains!

After a muddy walk through bush and forest, sooner than expected, I join a freshly bulldozed road. From this moment onwards, it will be roads only, all the way to Lindesnes. Roundabout 130 kilometers.

I follow Langvatnet, a dammed lake. Water level is low, revealing what's generally beneath the water surface. A petty sight.

I pass a skiing village and after more than 30 kilometers reach Åseral. A small town, but most importantly, it has a supermarket. Time for resupply and a little treat. Somehow, the time is flying. By the time I finished resupplying, it's nearly 6. There's a so called day hut right up the hill. That's where I am headed.

It's well worth the climb. A stylish hut. Not made for sleeping but just to hang out. With USB chargers, a nice fire place and nice views. Some locals are spending the night up there as well. We have a wonderful time around the fire, sharing stories and food.

It's warm with no rain expected. I decide to  simply roll out my pad, hoping to do a bit of stargazing tonight. 

Aklaevatnet to Stemtjonn

Distance: 35km

Another crisp cold morning. Unlike yesterday, I decide to stay in my tent until the sun pops up from behind the mountains. That should be around 06:00. Or so at least I thought. Murphy's clouds places itself right where the sun would rise. I wait, I wait a bit longer, another 10 minutes. Screw it. 

Without sun and warmth, I pack and leave. Sheep tracks take me down a couple of kilometers to a road. There, I have to make a decision: follow the road a bit and then turn right to Haheller hut (which is a 2 kilometers detour) or continue along the lake then cross a bridge? Problem: the bridge is only depicted in one of the two maps I use for navigation. 

Since there's a sign pointing along the lake for the bridge option, I risk it, hoping there would be a bridge.

The bridge is massiv, I see it from far away. Lucky! Not really. As I get closer, I notice a piece of the bridge collapsed. 

Three options: turn back and go the long way, follow the lake then hope that I eventually rejoin via an off-trail routing or just cross it. 

Being on a thru-hike, I don't like option one. Option two is also kind of a long shot.  So it's option three. Carefully, I climb down the collapsed part, balancing over some remaining metal pieces. It requires concentration but is actually not as risky as I thought. Still, I think if I wasn't on a thru-hike I probably wouldn't have done it. However, on long hikes like this one, generally I am willing to just go for it in such instances. 

With the obstacle crossed, the remaining part is boggy with lots of ups and downs. Not slow going, nevertheless it's tiring. 

Eventually, it's time to find a place to pitch for the night. 

Not easy because of the wind, wetlands and vegetation. After a bit of struggling, I find a reasonable spot. I guess after the last fantastic campspots I got a bit spoiled. This one is a bit mediocre in comparison but quite nice nonetheless. 

It's my last time on Norge på langs out in the "wild". Only 5 more kilometers and I will hit a road. From that moment on it's road walk all the way to Lindesnes. Around 150 kilometers I think. While I won't miss all the mud, I sure will miss these camping spots. 

Ulvtuvtjonn to Aklaevatnet

Distance: 34km

After a cold night follows a cold start. Instead of taking the correct path after leaving the causeway, I follow an old marker, guiding me in the complete wrong direction. Still a bit sleepy, it takes me a minute to realize.

Back on track, progress is good. My foot feels better and also the trail is nice to walk on. For mosts parts at least. It's muddy once I briefly descend below the bush line. Nothing unusual and expected.

There's really not much worth mentioning. Just a nice day walking.

As I get closer to my campspot, big, black clouds are rolling in over the hills. I feel some drops of rain and kind of expecting the rain to intensive. 

By this time, I feel exhausted. There's no way I can go any faster. Slow but steady I make my way south. 

I pitch my tent at the first best place. Just as I am inside it starts pouring. My campspot is not optimal at all. Uneven, rocky. Once the rain stops, I quickly move to another spot. Nestled between rocks, a river and the lake, the views are outstanding. Once more. Somehow, I have the feeling that my campspots are getting better and better! 

Vassdalstjorn to Ulvtuvtjonn

Distance: 23km

20 days on the trail! Time is flying!

Well, not this morning at least. The storm intensified overnight and is still raging outside when I wake up. No hurry to get going.

I drink one cup of coffee after the other, start reading a book that is laying around, plan my next stages. A lazy morning.

My left foot needs some attention as well. An open wound seems to have gotten infected. The smell is quite bad. With my nearly non-existent knowledge, I clean it with some sanitizer I find, dry it, put some of my antiseptic solution on it. Looking much better now. Hopefully, it will get better.

After some more coffee and some more pages of the not so capturing book, the sun is coming out and I decide to leave.

Leaving the hut behind, I continue skirting around Blasjo, a massive dammed lake, which I have been following since yesterday noon. It's okay going initially until I get hit by a heavy, around 2 hours lasting rain shower with strong winds. The rocks become wet and slippery. I am keeping my head down, just functioning. Surprisingly, I'm not angry or frustrated. 

Eventually, the rain stops. I have gotten uncomfortably cold so it's a delight, when the sun finds it's way through the clouds. 

Time for a break. It's where I suddenly feel exhausted. The last 2 hours have been tiring. Since I have phone signal, I decide updating my blog, just distract myself a bit. 

After doing so, I continue on a trail, which is hard to walk, up and down, partly badly marked. Difficult. 

Then, out of nowhere, there's this beach. Small and maybe not the most spectacular one. But it's so random. Such a welcome surprise. Up here in the Norwegian mountains. 

I can't resist, go for a swim in the clear water. It gives my mood a needed boost. 

However, I don't walk to far anymore. As I cross two lakes via a natural causeway, I decide to call it a day. The wound on my foot hurts, and anyway, it's kind of a magical place. Surrounded by water, out there on this small strip of land. 

A short day. Late start, early finish. But a tough day. Very challenging hiking. Many times did I have to use my hands climbing over rocks, many times I was close from slipping on the wet rocks. While not that many kilometers, it still feels like I have achieved something today. 

Moltenuten to Vassdalstjorn

Distance: 39km

Fog is engulfing my campspot as I pack. It lifts quickly though and just as I start my walk, the sun briefly breaks through the fog. Since I descend into the next valley, I dive back into the fog shortly after. It's okay going. Not as bad as yesterday, yet, it's pretty slow going at times. This changes, once I pass Jonstollen Hut. A beautiful trail takes me up Kyrkjesteinskaret. I fly up there. Knowing that I want to do a 40 kilometer day somehow makes walking easier. The motivation is simply better than, when, let's say, I plan a 25 kilometer day. Probably something psychological behind it.

Anyway, the last bit up the pass is tough. Nearly half a kilometer up a snow field. Hard work!

Once on top, the topography changes drastically. Hard to describe but the area consists of huge, shallow rocks. They are grippy, nice to walk on. A continuous up and down. Sometimes pretty steep and technically challenging. But still quite enjoyable. 

Even a bit more enjoyable as I am currently far away from civilization. A very remote area. No roads, no phone signal, no people. 

Around lunchtime, a bad weather front is approaching surprisingly quickly straight from the south. Initially, it's only clouds and winds increasing, then there's the rain. First rain after around 7 sunny days. 

It's too rocky and too windy. However, lucky me, there's a hut just around my 40 kilometers mark. While I was avoiding them for the last couple of weeks, today I go for it. As fast as I can. 

Not that easy. With the rain, the rocks feel slippier. Wise to slow down. 

But eventually make it there. A lovely hut. Expensive, yes, but the amenities and the views are well worth it. And... So far I am the only one! What a luxury.

Outside, the brisk wind has turned into a small storm. No way I could have pitched the tent.

The huts have solar power to charge phones and a gas stove to cook food. I make use of it both and slowly but surly settle in for a comfortable night in my bed.

I have no idea what the weather will do. My weather forecast is 2 days old. In other words useless. But as just written. Let me worry about tomorrow. For the moment all I am looking forward to is a good night's sleep. 

Haukeliseter to Moltenuten

Distance: 5+30km

A black Range Rover pulls over to give me a ride back to Haukeliseter. 

Normally, these cars never stop, but I got lucky after waiting for 5 minutes at the bus stop (yes there would have been a bus at 1:05am, wtf?...). 

Anyway, the ride is once more spectacular and shortly after 19:00 I get dropped off where I started my resupply adventure 7 hours earlier. With still enough daylight, I continue my walk for 5 kilometers, passing dozens of tents and campervans, all getting ready for the night. Eventually, I leave the road and on a rough, undulating trail, leavinh the people behind. After an hour of walking, I have enough, pitch my tent and go straight to sleep. 

Since it has gotten late, yesterday, I take it slow, waiting for the sun to rise before hitting the trail. A trail, which keeps being a bit slow going, and, as I climb the first saddle extremely rocky with big, sharp rocks, which require quite an effort to be conquered. Luckily, going gets faster on the other side. I pass several lakes, the views fantastic. And so is the weather. Perfect for a quick lunch break swim. 

At one point, I descend over big, flat rocks below the scrub line, where the trail becomes a muddy mess. My mood drops. I have gotten so used to the rocks, the mountains, the open, that being back in the scrubs feels a bit depressing. 

After a long chat with a lady at one of huts, my mood is improving and gets even better, when I spot some blue- and cloudberries. The trail then climbs steeply out of the bush, back into open. It's where I decide I have hiked enough for today. 30 kilometers. A heavy backpack and challenging trails made it a hard day nonetheless. 

So I am more than happy to find a lovely spot, overlooking a valley to the north, with impressive views of big, towering cumulus clouds over the Finse area. Seems like they get a lot of rain, while here, the sun keeps on shining. 

Buadalen to Haukelisetter

Distance: 25km

With the grocery store calling, getting up and hitting the trail goes relatively easy despite the cold temperatures.

While the beginning is a bit rough going, the middle part of today's hike is wonderful. Nice trails, even better views. In  fact one of the best views I have had in while. Maybe especially because I was expecting a rather dull walk. Despite the food calling, I take it slow, taking in the views, going for a quick swim.

Right in time, actually. The trail is getting busier shortly afterwards. A lot of day trippers. Doesn't really matter. The nice views are gone anway and so are the nice trails. So I sped up as much as I can and descend the last 5 or so kilometers to Haukelisetter, restaurant, hotel, a tourist hotspot. Crazy busy. Yet, getting a hitch out of there is not that easy. Cars either full or old people ignoring me.

After 45 minutes a red car (my lucky car color) stops and the lovely woman "just heading to where the sun is shining" is taking me to the next town. The drive is spectacular and a joy per se.

In town I first start looking for a power outlet. Getting my priorities straight. Food can wait. I get lucky near the sports ground, where I have my peace and quiet and plenty of space to lay out my stuff, update my blog etc etc.

Shopping is generally a breeze. In and out. A small but well stocked grocery store.

Packing is more time consuming. However, getting rid of packaging, saving weight and space, is worth the energy.

I'm still in Roldal as I write this, just finished a phone call with Fredy. All in the green back home.

Soon my phone is fully charged and I will try to hitch a ride back to Haukeliseter. If it works, sweet, if not, I will try my luck tomorrow. Anyway, it will get late. So I post today's blog already and will give an update on how things have worked out tomorrow. 

Ovre Bessevatnet to Buadalen

Distance: 30km

My rain measuring tool, aka my cooking pot, says roundabout 17mm of rain overnight. Less than expected but still enough.

The wind last night made my tent rock and roll. However, it hold up just fine. Just the rain fly leaking kept me initially busy. With my pack's raincover and my rain jacket, I was able to (surprisingly) keep most of the water out of my inner tent.

I wasn't expecting to sleep a lot, but was still able to sleep every now and then.

The rain stops at around 6. Earlier than expected. Still, since already planned a lay in, I stay in my sleeping bag, squashing mosquitoes waiting for me between inner and outer tent. It's rather addictive, oddly satisfying. 

The mosquitoes get their revenge once I crawl out of my tent, pack and leave.

The weather is a mix of sun and clouds, the trail a bit of everything. Rocky, muddy, snow, rivers. After my long day yesterday, going is a bit hard. My feet hurt a little, making every step an effort.

To distract myself, I am thinking of tomorrow, when I will cross a highway. Since I skipped my last resupply, it's high time for me to hitch into town to stock up on food. I'm pondering which direction I should hitch, whether I should stay in town for the night ect, ect.

What I came up with is: hitching west to Roldal, food for 6 days and not staying in Roldal. Somehow, I have to charge my batteries though. I will figure that one out when in town.

This short term planning is something I like doing. Keeps my mind busy. Not just with shopping but also the route, where to camp and so on.

Speaking of camping: after 30 kilometers I am done walking for the day. One steep, final climb takes me on a pass. The views spectacular. So that's it. My spot to camp. After yesterday's focus on a sheltered place, today, I am looking forward to enjoying the views.

Drageidfjorden to Ovra Bessevatnet

Distance: 48km

A mostly cloudless night. Without my tent's raincover, I had a lovely view at the night sky and at a nearly endless dusk and dawn.

It's a warm, humid night, my sleeping bag wet from the morning dew.

As I pack, the sun just rises from behind the hills. A great view and a great start into my day.

A long day, as it will turn out. After climbing over a first hill, terrain quite abruptly gets much flatter, less rocky but boggier. An interesting change. The scenery reminds me of the one in Finnmark, far up north. 

The mosquitoes are crazy in the beginning and I already start worrying about them, following me all day. However, a brisk southerly wind comes up, blowing them away. With the wind getting stronger, blowing right in my face, also going is getting harder. I make good progress though. Even though, here and there are still rocky, slow going parts. To be honest, I don't enjoy the scenery that much. Maybe it has also to do with the high clouds, which make everything look a bit dull. Eventually, I enter Hardangervidda National Park. The scenery doesn't change much. Just more people.

With the wind still blowing strong, I decide I would continue to cross the flat, to find some more sheltered places to pitch my tent, meaning a long day.

Despite feeling reasonably fit, like yesterday, I eventually start feeling every muscle.

Since the winds are supposed to increse even more and torrential rain forecasted for tonight, I want to find a reasonably sheltered spot. Not an easy task. It takes me a while until I find something suitable. Not perfect but I hope it will do. Too tired to look any further. And the sky looks like rain in imminent.

Right after finishing my dinner, the rain starts. I retreat into my tent, preparing myself for a very wet, windy night,crossing my fingers that my not-so-well-in-shape-anymore tent will keep me dry and safe tonight. 

Geiteryggvatnet to Drageidfjorden

Distance: 40km

Today, while hiking, it crossed my mind that, gosh, I have been repeating myself in this blog over the last couple of days. Rocky trails, reasonably good weather, scenic campspots and generally good hiking spirit.

So I tried to come up with something different today, the sun however, relentlessly shining on my head, with no shade whatsoever, rendered my brain useless.

Therefore, I am sorry, I write for the 10th time: Rocky trails, generally easier going and amazing views of the Finse Massif with its glaciers. Finse is also the name of a train station. With 1222 meters the highest in Norway but for me mainly a place to quickly recharge my batteries.

The area around the train station is a zoo. Just too many people out and about. As I hit the trail again, it's getting a bit better. Yet, there are many people hiking it. I feel great, overtaking roundabout a dozen people. It's the time of the day, everything works smoothly. I'm in the flow, the mood fantastic. My motivation top.

But what goes up eventually must come down. I hit the wall after 32 kilometers. Suddenly, going is harder.

Therefore, I am released when I spot yet another wonderful place to pitch my tent. Overlooking two lakes.

It's only 17:00. But that's more than okay. After 40 kilometers, I am just happy to enjoy the view.

And by the way: Halfway! Distance wise at least. Roundabout 500 kilometers hiked with 500 more to go. I'd love to celebrate it with some extra chocolate but since I spontaneously decided to skip my next resupply tomorrow, it's conserving food for me. Don't worry though, I will definitely catch up on the missed chocolate during my next resupply! 

Valefatnet to Geiteryggvatnet

Distance: 38km

Being waken up by the rising sun, shining on my tent, warming it up, happens rarely, almost never actually. For that, I generally leave too early.

Today is the exception though. The fantastic location of my spot gets hit by the first rays of the raising sun at shortly past 5. An amazing feeling, making my campspot even better and a worthy candidate for my top ten all time favorite campspots.

I'm on a mission though and thus have to eventually leave my spot. While the trail continues to be rocky, weather and views are spectacular. Progress is slow, not just because of the rocky terrain but also because of the numerous photo stops.

As I descend, going gets easier. I feel great, lots of energy. I am flying up the next pass. A beautiful, fast trail. Shortly before the top, catch up to a young Norwegian hiker. We start a conversation, walking together for quite a while, following lakes across a rocky landscape. It's not often that I meet people hiking at the same pace. So that's a nice change. After a while, I stop for a break, going for a swim in one of the ice cold lakes, doing laundry, using the sun to wear dry my clothes.

It's rough hiking over rocks again. Very hard on my feet and knees. A couple of kilometers later, I meet my Norwegian hiking companion again. He has some pain in his feet, slowing him down. I match his pace and together we continue nearly all the way to Geiterygghytta, where he is staying and I pitch my tent nearby. Not as spectacular as last night's spot but a nice view of the lake nevertheless. 

Honestly, it felt good, having someone to hike with, today. Especially, across this challenging terrain.

Overall, a very good the on the trail. The hiking spirit is up high. Exactly as it should be! 

Suleskaret to Valevatnet

Distance: 35km

Rarely have I ever spent such a rainy night in the tent. The constant noise prevented me from falling asleep. Headphones and some relaxing music did the trick.

When I woke up during the night, only light rain remained. Nevertheless, the inside of my tent was something in between damp and wet.

A couple of hours later I pack. My campspot is engulfed by fog. Inside temperature in my tent: 6°C. Uncomfortable.

Way finding in the fog is challenging. There's no formed track and I navigate from marker to marker, carefully hopping from one slippery rock to the next.

It's a constant switching from looking ahead to find the next marker to looking down at my feet. 

One could think I am a bit annoyed but, no, I have to concentrate so hard, there's no room for emotions.

Eventually, I am descending below the cloud base, out of the fog. The clouds, however, remain. Unlike forecasted, they don't dissipate. So I make my way south, the trail is getting easier to walk on, therefore, progress is good. Until shortly before Bjordalsbu, where the trail is getting rocky again. And it's staying rocky. While never steep, it's a technical hike, requiring a lot of concentration. It's a constant reading of the rocks, carefully finding a suitable rock to place my foot on. Nevertheless, every now and then a trip or a rock under my foot moves. Especially, towards the end, when I am mentally and physically getting tired. I have been lucky, some bruised toes and a small cut on my shin. Nothing to worry about but it shows, how fast something can happen.

During these last few kilometers, the weather improves dramatically. The colors change, the views into the distance are suddenly here. It feels great to finally have some sun again. 

I have a lake in mind, where I would pitch my tent. 2 kilometers before, however, there's the perfect place to pitch a tent (and looking at some pegs lying around, was probably not the only one thinking it). 

It's a bit windy. Perfect to dry my tent, sleeping bag and everything else that needs to be dried. 

Tomorrow, well, the weather is supposed to be good again and looking ahead, the trail rocky again. But for the moment, I just enjoy the moment, the views. 

Sletterust to Suleskaret

Distance: 23km

Finally a good night's sleep. How I missed it! Maybe because I knew today would be a short day.

So I take my sweet time, eating some chocolate while still burried deep in my sleeping bag. 

By eight, I am on my way. The trail is neither good, nor bad. Some fast parts, some slow parts. Average. Some muddy parts, some rocky parts, some smooth, gravelly bits. Average. Also the the weather is very average today. Better than expected, yet a bit grim looking. No rain, hardly any sun. And finally the landscape. Nice, mountainous but not breathtaking. Average again. 

Below average is just my pace. I go for a looong coffee break, then have a looong chat with two fellow countrymen, which I meet shortly afterwards. Just the couple of kilometers before Sulebu, I activate my afterburner, flying towards the hut, only to be slowed down again later on by rocks. Back to my avarage day.

Anyway, just after passing these rockfields and the Suleskaret Pass, I spot a nice place to camp. Only 16:00, just a bit more than 20 kilometers hiked. Definitely below average. Anyway, the view is spectacular and I decide to call it a day. 

Just as I have finished pitching my tent, it starts to rain. Luck. Definitely above average.

I'm happy having done a short day. My body needed it. Tomorrow and day after tomorrow, the weather is looking very promising. Hard to believe at the moment but if it really is sunny, it's going to be fabulous day in the mountains. 

Fleskedalen to Sletterust

Distance: 45km

Another night of bad sleep. Might be partly the new sleeping pad, which I still have to get used to but I think the main reason is the rain and with it the noise.

After my long day, everything takes a bit longer this morning. Eventually, I am on my way, descending from 1000 meters to sea level. The track is steep in parts, but generally not too difficult. Highlight of the morning: Vettisfossen. With 275 meters free drop, the highest in Norway. The view, its force, the noise. It's breathtaking. I take a quick break, eat some chocolate to savor the moment a bit more.

Eventually, I continue my descent down to the fjord. Still steep, still not too challenging. At the bottom, it's a 3 hours walk to Ovre Ardal, where I resupply, charge my batteries and plan the next section. All in all, it takes me 2 hours before I am on my way again.

And while in the morning it was 1000 meters down, it's now 1000 meters up along an old coach road. Apparently it took more than 30 years to build but eventually was replaced by a new road.

Climbing with a backpack full of food is strenuous but eventually I make it. Just as I am arriving, the weather improves. Feels good to have the weather on my side for once. Especially, because the views of the fjord are wonderful. I keep following the old road, getting soaked by yet more rain. Camping spots are rare so I keep on walking, eventually leaving the road. As I climb further into the mountains, I find a neat spot, overlooking the valley. I use a dry spell to pitch my tent.

Just as I have finished settling in, the rain sets in again.

Another long day. My body feels tired. In combination with the bad weather forecast, I'll probably take it a bit slower tomorrow, making a shorter day.

Now let's hope for a good night sleep for a change. 

Spiterstulen to Fleskedalen

Distance: 40km

I know I repeat myself but it's another rainy night. Heavy rain. Putting my backpack raincover on top of my leaky rainfly as additional layer helps me from getting even wetter.

I wake up around 4 but remain in my sleeping bag since it's still raining. Despite a long day ahead of me. At 5 it stops and in no time I am ready to hit the trail. After a short while, I meet Monika in front of her tent, cooking a porridge. She's is flip flopping Norge pa langs. At the moment, she's heading south, but taking a different route than me. Since she carries food for up to 3 weeks (!), no need to resupply. I must admit, I'm impressed. 

It's time to move on, rain starts again. Several river crossing make the hike challenging. Fording these high flowing rivers requires care and since it's ice cold glacial melting water, it's pretty uncomfortable as well.

Luckily, the rain stops, make my life instantly more pleasant. It even gets better, when I head straight for a rainbow, popping up in front of me. Like yesterday, my hike takes me over a mountain pass. Again rocky, again slow going. For most of the time, I follow a hiker. With the approximately same pace, I follow him a couple of meters behind until I eventually close up. A bit of chit chatting and when Leirvassbu, a massive hut complex, is finally in front of us, we go in, have two well needed cups of coffee each.

It's raining again outside and our motivation to head out there is not really there. So we chat some more until I really have to leave. The late start, the slow trail and now the long break. I'm far behind my schedule for today. It would become a long day... 

Thanks to an unexpected gravel road, the next 5 kilometers are surprisingly easy going. Also afterwards, descending to Skogdalsboen, progress keeps being good. Shortly after the hut, I spontaneously decide to jump into a river. Taking my smelly clothes with me into the water. It feels great thanks to sky, which cleared up. I put back on my wet clothes to dry wear them. 

The trail gets rougher again. Progress on these last kilometers is painfully slow. I feel tired, ever step requires plenty of effort. 

It's the view that keeps me going. As I get closer to the fjords, the valley narrows, huge waterfalls everywhere. A spectacular view. 

Yet, the views only help so much. During a last steep descent to some flatter grounds, I feel every muscles in my legs. And when I struggle to find a campspot, my mood drops completely. 

Anyway, now, after pasta and porridge, laying on my new sleeping pad, my world feels in order again. Yes, it was a long day. Too long maybe. I sure came close to my limits. Maybe not something I need every day, but every now and then I think it's a good thing to check where they are. 

Randsverk to Spiterstulen

Distance: 40km

I wake up to a spectacular morning sky. What a treat to start my day. My morning mood gets even better, when I notice my tent is completely dry. For the first time on this trip.

After a couple of kilometers, clouds are pushing in from the north, getting thicker with every minute. In Glitterheimen, at the end of an never-ending gravel road that I walked yesterday and this morning, I plan to grab a coffee. The hut is busy however, the line at the reception long. So I pass and shortly after leave the warm hut.

Back on the trail, going gets harder. As I climb Velsglupen, with 1650 meters one of the highest points on this trip, the trail gets rocky. Very rocky. Going is slow and with my not-so-fresh-anymore sandals, I feel every one of these rocks.

When the wind and the rain set in, I initially feel a bit down, but recover surprisingly quickly. I think to myself, I mastered much worse tracks and weather conditions on Nordkalottleden back in 2020. So this is actually a piece of cake.

And around 5 hours after leaving Glitterheimen without my coffee, I arrive in Spiterstulen. Another massive hut complex. Incredibly busy as well. Despite the adverse weather conditions. Should I stay or should I continue? Just booking a bed is tempting but somehow I feel like camping tonight. No idea why. Generally, I prefer a bed over a tent, especially when it rains.

So I continue. Back out into the rain, which is getting heavier. A bit more than a kilometer from the hut I have enough, pitch my tent in the pouring rain. Despite being incredibly quick, the inside is still getting wet. Still, I don't mind too much. Mainly, I am just happy to be out of the rain, after a surprisingly challenging day out in the mountains. 

Bekken to Randsverk

Distance: 45km

It has gotten late yesterday. Planning, organizing, packing. Some 'social' duties as well. When I finally called it a day, I immediately fell asleep. So a veeeeery good first impression of the new mattress. However, I must have been extremely tired and eventually woke up, feeling rather stiff. The pad is definitely firmer. But I think I will get used to it rather quickly. 

Because of the late bedtime, it's not such an early start. Well, compared to other days. By 5 I am on my way. A humid morning, slightly foggy in the morning. As I climb out of the valley, it gets pleasantly warm. With 1000 vertical meters, it's a long climb, initially along gravel roads but eventually off track. Finding my own way. A bit trickier than I anticipated but once above the treeline, going is easier. I take the direct route up. My puls over 170 beats per minute. Unusually high for me while hiking. Anyway I feel good, the views are fantastic. Hundreds of flies follow me all the way across the mountain. As soon as descend below the treeline on the other side they are suddenly gone.

What follows is a long, tough roadwalk. Mostly across dairy country. Plenty of traffic, mostly Volvos, who are headed for a Volvo meeting. I pass the time looking at some of these cars and with plenty of ice cream. 3 to be precise. I wasn't expecting so many shops along the way. But I don't complain.

Despite all the ice cream, my legs start feeling tired, my back stiff. Once above the treeline again, I pitch my tent. No need to go any further. The views are spectacular. You can't imagine how happy I am that the weather is playing along. Enjoying it, as long as it lasts. Tomorrow, looks very differently. 

It's when, I'll head into Jotunheimen National Park. Even deeper into the mountains. Exciting times ahead! 

Straumbu to Bekken

Distance: 35km

No thunder, no steong winds. But another rainy night (at times it rained so heavily, the water penetrated the rain fly, making it an uncomfortable night), another early start, another fast packing due to mosquitoes.

The walk across Rondane National Park offers some wonderful views, however, due to a rocky track, my focus was mostly where I would put my feet down next.

On the other side of the park, at Rondvassbu, I more or less bump into Frank as he just gets out of the hut. Frank, a lovely hiker from Germany, who I met in Abisko, 4 years ago. Me on E1 southbound, he on his way to Nordkapp. Such a huge coincidence, we meet again. Again, I head south, he's heading north. There's so much catching up to do. We spend nearly 2 hours talking. It feels good and really motivates me to carry on my adventure. 

After a long hug, it's time to continue. A long road walk to Otta to resupply. Or at least so I thought. 

In Bekken, around a kilometer out of Otta, I get into a conversation with a local. And shortly after, get invited to pitch my tent in their garden. A wonderful, highly appreciated gesture as I don't have anywhere to stay in Otta. 

I settle in, preparing for a relaxed afternoon. Well, at least so I thought again... 

As I blow air into my mattress, three loud 'pops' make me flinch. It takes me a couple of seconds to realize that some of the seams of my mattress gave up the ghost. And from reports from other hikers I met over the years, that's it. Nothing to fix. Distaster. Yeah Maria, I know you warned me a while ago... But ignorant me wouldn't listen... 

What to do? I take out my phone, google for sport stores in Otta. Bingo! But they close in less than hour. Marit, my trail angel, offers me her bicycle. What an nice gesture. A 10 minutes cycle takes me into town and to the sports store. Very limited selection. I go with one of their overpriced foam mattresses. Something completely different to my air mattresses. I'll report tomorrow how I slept. 

Anyway, once back, I get treated with a delicious fish dinner with potatoes and carrots. We have very interesting conversations about the area. Great so get some background information about the area I walk through. Time flies. They are headed to some friends, I do my resupply, have a hot shower, write my blog. It's well past nine, whenn I finally retreat into my tent. 

What a day it was. Full of surprises. Negative but (luckily) mostly postive ones.  A day to remember for sure. 

Dollbekksaetran to Straumbu

Distance: 40km

14 hours of rain. Not heavy but continuous. Everything in my tent is damp. Not a pleasant feeling.

So I start packing by 03:00. The super aggressive mosquitoes, going straight after my legs, are a good motivation to pack quickly. So soon after getting up I am on my way. 

The rain has stopped, just some low hanging clouds remain. A friendly day weatherwise. Also the the rest of today's hike is wonderful from A to Z. Good but challenging, sometimes rocky trails, spectacular views and my body feeling fresh. A day like this is the perfect medicine too boost the hiking spirit.

Laying in my tent, overlooking a small alpine tarn, I feel satisfied after a rewarding day. Not even the strong winds and the towering cumulus clouds, which might even end up in thunder, can worry me at the moment.

I don't want to add anything else at this point. Rather, I'd like to let the photos speak. 

Brønnåtjønna to Dollbekksaetran

Distance: 30km

03:00. Even for me, this is an early start. However, with daylight permitting and bad weather forecasted for the afternoon, it's not the most stupid thing to set off that early.

It's cold and due to the overnight rain, the humidity high. Yet, it's a smooth start into the day. Until I climb out of Tylldalen towards Avdal. Overgrown track, wet, hard to follow. Several times, I loose the faint trail. It seems like a typical "connection trail" that somehow remained on the map but neglected by whoever is responsible for the maintenance. Anyway, eventually I make it to Avdal. I have walked for 4 hours, still, it's only 08:00. And my body is already ready for lunch...

After stuffing the bought food into my pack and getting rid of all the packaging, I continue, only to realize that I forgot my hiking poles in the store. Luckily, I haven't left the parking lot yet, so the detour is not that painful. 

With my poles, I now definitely continue. After a short while, I spot 2 through hikers coming the opposite way! (we all look the same, it's not such a challenge to identify a through hiker).

A quick chat reveals that they are headed northbound from Lindesnes to Nordkapp and have been on the trail for 2 months.

As we can already smell the rain, we each continue our own ways. It felt good meeting them, knowing that I am not the only one out there.

Rain starts a couple of minutes later. Not heavy but continuous. Before climbing above the tree line, I decide to call it a day. It only 14:00 and I would easily be ready for another two hours. Physically. But walk another 10 kilometers in the rain, with no sheltered spots to camp... Not the smartest idea. 

A bit of shame that the weather is holding me back. Stopping, beside the urge to continue doesn't feel right. In the beginning at least it did.

Now, I actually feel quite comfortable. A lovely spot under a tree, listening to the rain and plenty of time to write the blog.

Hodalen to Brønnåtjønna

Distance: 45km

Thanks to the firewood, the tipi is warm and cozy when I slip into my sleeping bag. Nevertheless, the sleep still isn't as deep as I hope it would be.

Maybe, it's, beside the not so dark nights, the usual tension at the beginning of a new hike, that is keeping me awake. 

Anyway, it's an early start. By 04:30, I am on my way, climbing out of Hodalen on a particularly wet track. Yet, progress is smooth and once above the bush line, the views are beautiful.

Every now and then, there's even some sunshine, which really helps to boost ny hiking spirit.

Eventually, I join a gravel road, taking me down to Bydalen, before gently climbing up the other side of the valley until I find a somewhat suitable place to pitch my tent. Nothing fancy, between a gravel road and a lake. Plenty of mosquitoes (reminds me of my time in Finnmark) but it's a flat, dry spot that will do just fine for the night. 

It was a long day today as wanted to make the most of the weather. Doing these long ones are mentally challenging for me. Especially, when I haven't really arrived in my thru-hiking mindset. Somehow, I am still stuck, back in Switzerland, going after my daily routine. Running, swimming, working. Challenging as well, but in a very different way. 

During the 45 kilometers today, I was thinking a lot about Switzerland, how nice it would be just to go for a run, a swim, having a shower and a coffee. Yet, towards the end of the hike, somehow I started feeling slightly more comfortable on the trail. Hike, eat, sleep, repeat... Doesn't sound that bad after all. I wouldn't say that I am fully there just yet but definitely on my way. 

Bredalsibua to Hodalen

Distance: 25km

While the sun is below the horizon at night, at this time of the year, it never gets completely dark. And despite being extremely tired, I still need to get used to it. As a result, my sleep is not as deep as I was hoping for. Anyway, I feel recovered enough to start into my hiking day. There's even a little bit of sun. Such a lovely surprise. The surprise, however, is just lasting for the first two hours. As I make my way up another hill, through a mystic, white mossy landscape, it starts pouring down. 3 hours of continuous, heavy rain, no shelter around. In the beginning, I cope with it but eventually it gets annoying. While the trail is great, it is still tough going. The more I am relieved, when I pass through the village of Hodalen and find some shelter under a porch of a closed restaurant. Still raining heavily, I have no urge to continue. I change into dry clothes, have something to eat. A local is approaching me, we have a chat. It feels good being a bit distracted from the weather. He points out a shelter just around the corner, even calls another local to ask if it was okay if I stayed there. With me still being cold and the weather not drastically improving, I head straight for the shelter. It's only 14:00 but I feel like walking no more today. So I settle in, hang my dry clothes. Eventually, the local comes  bag with big bag of firewood. What a lovely surprise. Being out in the rain for several hours, this actually means a lot for me.

So I fire up the old, rusty stove. The shelter heats up quickly, making it super pleasant.

Another short rainy day. Not an easy start into my hiking adventure. My hiking spirit is still up, but for how much longer? The forecast isn't very promising. A pleasant morning tomorrow (the reason why I want to have an early start tomorrow). Then rain again on Wednesday. I will see how it goes, how I feel. But let me worry about it later. For the moment I fully enjoy my warm shelter. 

Roros to Bredalsibua

Distance: 15km

Getting from Trondheim Airport to Roros is straightforward. Train to the City, another train to Roros. However, the connection is bad and the trains are slow. It takes me roughly 6 hours. I don't mind, I am not in a hurry to get off the train and into the rain, to hit the trail. While the train ride is actually quite picturesque, the bad weather and the tiredness, which hits me, makes for a difficult ride. Anyway, during my long layover in Tromdheim, I'm on a mission. Mission camping gas. Mission impossible as it turns out. Nevertheless, while looking for it in gas station, I meet to young cashiers. They apologize for their gas station poor selection and invite me for a well needed coffee, before I continue to Roros.

Once off the train, I head straight to the nearest gas station. One of my last chances... And success. With 175 kroners It's ridiculously expensive. It has to be a superb gas. Anyway, I am happy I have it. 

In the waiting lounge of the train station, I change, get ready for my hike in the rain. With every minute, I feel better (maybe the chocolate I have bought together with the gas helped). And when I finally hit the trail, there's even a dry spell.

Navigating out of town is easy. After my third visit in Roros, I start to know my way around. Eventually, I leave the road. After 2 steps, both my shoes are soaked. A taste of what is yet to come. But it was expected. But beside being wet, the trail is fantastic to walk. No ticks, no mosquitos. And from time to time I am even able to ignore the weather, which is getting harsher by the minute. And it's during these moments, I really enjoy being back out there.

Still, despite being outside for only 3 hours, I start feeling uncomfortably cold. Luckily, there's a hut/shelter close to the trail. Without thinking too much, I head straight for it. It turns out to be a lovely wee hut and despite only a short distance walked, a suitable place to set camp.

While writing these lines, the weather is becoming more intense. I feels good being sheltered in here - enjoying the luxury

However, it will be the first and only hut like this along my way and I fully appreciate that from tomorrow onwards, I will be more exposed to the elements. So fingers crossed, the weather will improve. 

I am writing these lines from the arrival hall at Trondheim airport, after spending a short night here and after a long, tiresome journey from Zurich.

Exhausted, but still somehow relieved that my new adventure has finally started.

There really is not that much to write. Honestly, I just kill some time, waiting for my train to Trondheim Central Station, where I will connect to a train bound for Roros. Somewhere in between, I really want to find gas for my cooker. So far I haven't been lucky. The gas station at the airport, did not have any camping gas. At least they had (well needed) coffee. 

The flights yesterday where uneventful. Heavy rain and thunder in Zurich, which delayed my first flight, rain again in Oslo. Because the same aircraft operated my second flight to Trondheim, I could make the connection. No free night in a hotel in Oslo after all...

The sun is shining here at Tromdheim airport. Blue skies in fact. But the sunny weather wont join me to Roros. Heavy rain is forcasted for the next two days. 

So I am not fully certain that I will start my hike today. Maybe, I will wait a bit for the worst of the weather to pass. But there is still a bit of time to decide. 

It feels like yesterday, the moment I touched the statue at Capo Passero, marking the end of my four year E1 adventure.

In fact, however, more a year has passed, I am back in the daily grind. Lucky for me though, I take another couple of weeks off work this summer.

The big question: what am I going to do?

Launching a new big project? Trying something completely different? 

Well, somehow I don't feel ready for a new big project like E1 just yet. Still, I'd like to do a bit of walking.

I have used the long winter nights to ponder my next move and eventually came up with Norge på langs (or NPL) – Norway Lengthwise. From the top to the bottom of Norway. Or vice versa. There is no given route. Hike your own hike. Whether you want to cut across Sweden or not, walk inland or closer to the coast – the choice is yours.

When I was hiking the E1 from Nordkapp to Sicily, without knowing back then (I only found out later about NPL), I was already doing roughly two thirds of the length of Norway (the green line on the map on the right), before making my down Sweden towards Denmark.

From Nordkapp to Roros, roundabout 2000 kilometers. The time spent on E1 in Norway was, looking back, the best of my whole 8000 kilometers E1 adventure. The scenery, the remoteness, being at the mercy of the elements, but also the people I met along the way – they all made my time in Norway unforgettable. There’d be so much to write about my time up there, but I don’t want to waffle on at this point. There is plenty of reading material here and here for those interested.

Since I have all these great memories, why not returning to this wonderful place and completing the length of Norway? Picking this low hanging fruit. From Roros to Lindesnes. Another 1000 kilometers to Norway’s southernmost point.

With my rough plan in place, I started looking for a date to hit the trail, suitable flights, planning a detailed hiking route, resupply points, etc etc.

A long story short: my flight leaves Zurich on July, 6th in the evening, arriving in Trondheim by midnight. From there, I will take the train to Roros, where I hope to arrive my Sunday noon. Somewhere between Trondheim and Roros, I will need to score a gas canister. Not an easy task on a Sunday in Norway. Anyway, if I get lucky, I hope to start diving into my adventure right after stepping off the train in Roros. 

Weather isn't looking to promising at the moment, with rain and not very summery temperatures. But, as the Norwegian say, there is no bad weather, just bad clothes. 

Norway, Finland, Sweden, Denmark, Germany, Switzerland and Italy. 7 Countries. More than 8000 kilometres, 219 days, 4 summers (and 1 winter).

E1 in a nutshell.

From the Far North to the Deep South. From the tundra in Finnmark to the steppe like landscape on Sicily. Through the vast Swedish forests, never ending corn fields in Germany, across the Alps and into the unknown, rugged Apennine and along coasts up north and down south. A trail scattered with milestones. Completing the Scandinavian peninsula, spotting the Alps, while still deep in the black forest, arriving home, seeing the Mediterranean near Genova and many more.

What a ride it has been. I have no idea, where I should start with the summary of my E1 adventure. I'm not even sure if I should call it E1 or simply my hike across Europe. While I was following E1 for most of the 7 months, I created my own hike here and there. Namely in the southern part of Sweden, Denmark and then again in Campania and Calabria. Up north because I was enjoying my hike so much and wanted to add some more regions, down south because E1 was either not defined or I didn't want to risk getting stuck in overgrown or non-existing tracks. A completely differing, everchanging hiking experience as I make my way south.

I still remember my first day on E1 like it was yesterday. Fog, briefly lifting, letting the sun through, creating a mystical atmosphere, as I leave Nordkapp at three in the morning. Embarking into a new adventure. Little would I know how unforgettable it is going to be,

Norway is wild. Sparse. With long stretches where neither paths nor markings are existing. Mosquitoes, snow, river crossings the unforgivable weather add to the challenge. So does the solitude. Long stretches in between civilization. Food for 300 kilometres leads to a heavy backpack. Yet, I love my time up there. Each and every day. Days, which are long. Never-ending. Walking in the midnight sun is an unforgettable experience.

As I enter the Sweden with its forest, the hiking changes. The trees give me the comforting feeling of being sheltered. Yet, they have a confining effect. I miss the views. However, basically every day a vindskydd (a shelter) is awaiting me. Generally, idyllically nestled to a lake. Surprisingly, I have them for myself. Many evenings, I spend swimming in these lakes, before warming myself up in front of the campfire. A wonderful ending of a hiking day. More often than not, these evenings where the highlight of my day. Even when I hit the coast in Skane, leaving the forest behind. If there is something like thru-hiking romance that's probably as close as I ever get. I feel light-hearted. Happy. I am hiking and living in the here and now, An unforgettable feeling. After exactly 100 days, I reach Sweden's southernmost point, completing the Scandinavian peninsula.

What follows next is Denmark. In November. A good idea? Well, until today I am not sure. Yes, it is cold, windy, wet. And dark. The days are short, many hours I walk in the darkness. Nevertheless, walking the deserted beaches and huge dunes, hardly able to withstand the wind, passing through towns with their Christmas decoration, spending the evenings in the vindskydds, reading my book by candlelight, trying to stay warm, gives my time in Denmark a special touch. An experience I have not had before.

The following summer, it's time to leave Scandinavia. Germany is calling. Honestly, I do not have high expectations. Lots of forest, flat terrain, cocky Germans. Things I thought would be awaiting me hiking Germany.

As a result, I don't feel overly enthusiastic when I resume my hike in Flensburg on a wet and cold spring day. But my not too optimistic mindset is helping me to be positively surprised more easily. By the trail, the scenery and by the people. In fact, I very much enjoy my hike across Germany. 

Yes, the terrain is flat for most of the first three weeks. A hill of more than 200 meters is the exception. A highlight even. Yet, the walk from Eckernförde to Kiel along the Ostsee is one to remember. Wonderful late spring weather, along a beautiful, deserted stretch of rugged coastline

The lakes disappear, the temperatures are getting higher as I make my way south. The heat. A new phenomenon on E1. Something to get used to. Walking E1 in Germany is fairly civilized. Plenty of resupply points, plenty of ice cream. I am surprised by the German's hospitability. More often than not I can camp in people’s backyard or even in their homes. They offer me food and plenty of beer. Not a single night I spend on a campground or in a hostel or hotel, And I must admit, once I cross the border into Switzerland, I feel a bit guilty. Germany has proven me wrong. In hindsight, Germany has been a refreshing hiking experience.

The next 250 kilometres across Switzerland are so different to Germany. First and foremost, they are on home Turf, then the terrain:  mountainous with lakes every couple of kilometres. The way I like it.  Furthermore, there's the great company of Fredy and the wonderful surprise of meeting Klaus and Gisela. This all adds to a lovely 10 days in Switzerland. Yet, I am happy to reach the Italian border. My feet feel tired and the hot weather too, has left its marks.

After a well-needed break, I tackle Italy a couple of weeks later. Resuming E1 in Porto Ceresio. From the very beginning, it is somewhat of a struggle. The three-week break is too short to fully recover from the previous stint across Germany and Switzerland, yet long enough to throw me out of my thru-hiking rhythm. Additionally, the first week, leading me across the Po flat, is mentally demanding: flat out boring through a desolate landscape with the odd dirty, smelly village thrown in between. Dogs keep barking at me. For most of the time, hiking trails are often non-existent and thus plenty of the first 250 kilometres on asphalt. The cycle tracks along the Ticino River are okay while the stretches on roads are, thanks to the terrible Italian drivers, not a lot of fun.

Things change dramatically once I enter the Ligurian Mountains, where proper, well-marked hiking trails are popping up. With the clearer air and the higher altitude, the views are getting better with every day. When I spot the Mediterranean, I must shed a tear of joy as I start to realize how far I have come on my E1 adventure. Mentally, this helps me a lot. And I need this extra motivation as the trail is getting physically demanding as I head into the Apennine. Lots of ups and downs, sometimes on technically demanding trails. Never dangerous or extremely exposed though. E1 becomes surprisingly remote at times, meaning my backpack is generally rather heavy with food for up to six days and plenty of water. However, my effort is rewarded with spectacular ridge walks, breathtaking views and lovely camping spots (while officially not allowed) wild camping in Italy is absolutely doable. Especially in the Ligurian Mountains and the Apennine I never struggle to find a spot). It's exquisite hiking and one of the best so far on E1. After pausing near Firenze for the winter, I continue in 2023, where I have left the trail a couple of months earlier.

I am mentally fighting with myself, making my hike harder than it should be. Around the earthquake destroyed area of Amatrice, I reach a personal low. Never in my thru-hiking career did I struggle with myself so much. I am close to giving up. I'm glad for all the support I receive from home and overseas. It helps me to change my attitude, accept certain things the way they are, even see the good things in them. Like the rain. 

Italy is a long country. Walking down its spine seems never ending. Until I hit the coast.

Different walking. No more rain. Sunny and hot. Very hot. Mostly enjoyable walking. Having the deep blue sea to my right, always available for a swim, gives me good feeling. It feels like I am flying down the boot and across Sicily towards Italy's southernmost point and southern terminus of E1.

Of all countries hiked, Italy is by far the most challenging. Physically, with the heat and the mountainous terrain until reaching the coast but especially mentally. 

To cut a long story short:

On E1 in Norway, the trail, the journey is my destination. The spectacular, mountainous scenery, the solitude, the remoteness, the untouched nature, the hospitality of its people is simply unbeatable. But also extremely challenging is adding to the positive experience. 

In Sweden, after hiking through forest most of the time, the amazing shelters or vindskydd (as they call them), which were usually nestled close to pristine lakes and provided firewood and comfortable sleeping possibilities, were undoubtedly the highlight, my destination of the day. Germany was, what I would consider, comfort hiking. A country able to really surprise me. In a good way. Getting close to Switzerland, home, was the driving factor for most across Germany. Switzerland, well, that is home. Unique, different. Not much to add. Then Italy with its ups and downs in so many ways. Being so far into my adventure there is really no turning back or giving up. My motivation. So I continue. And knock the bastard off.

It's only on my way home, cruising just below the speed of sound at 30'000 feet, looking down at Italy and areas I have been walking, when I fully realize how far I have come. What I have achieved. It gives me the comforting feeling of fulfilment. At this very moment I feel complete. Happy to have decided to tackle and finish E1.

So what now? Honestly, I don't know. Scandinavia maybe. Probably. At least I don't have another big adventure lined up. For the time being I simply enjoy reminiscing.

I knocked the bastard off. And a bastard it was for sure - this last stretch of E1. 

But I will come back to that a bit later.

Mid-June, I prepare myself for Italy, where heavy rainfall is causing death and destruction. The weather settles just as I continue my journey on Passo della Giogo. A good start. Dry, not too hot, not too cold a good track.

Things quickly get a bit more challenging with overgrown tracks, ticks and afternoon  thunderstorms. Some fabulous stretches, like one a bit northeast of Perugia, the area around Castelluccio or the Abruzzo mountains are able to keep my hiking spirit from plunging. Stretches which by far exceed my expectations. Also the endless beech forestes are a pleasure. Overall I am mentally fighting with myself, making my hike harder than it should be. Around the earthquake destroyed area of Amatrice, I reach a personal low. Never in my thru-hiking career did I struggle with myself so much. I am close to giving up. I'm glad for all the support I receive from home and overseas. It helps me to change my attitude, accept certain things the way they are, even see the good things in them. Like the rain. 

So I carry on. However, shortly afterwards I start to realize: the route I have planed to hike across Campana and Calabria (along Sentiero Italia) is out of my league at this time. Too long, too many vertical meters, the uncertainty if the tracks are walkable.

In my head, I am mulling different option. The most appealing and realistic one is simply follow the coast from Salerno the Villa San Giovanni. The ferry terminal for Sicily. Yes, it would involve a lot of road walk. But by then I am tired of missing markers and getting lost, so I opt for the coast. With the beach calling, I can gain new momentum and I have some great hiking days.

Nevertheless, I then extremely spontaneously decide to take a couple of days off anyway. Head home, leaving the trail in Sulmoma. Waiting for the weather to improve, plan my new route.

Is it the right decision to take a break? Or should I have used the momentum. On the train home, I question my own decision keep on doing so during my 6 days off trail. What I can certainly say is that they help me to sort my thoughts and hit the trail well motivated and mentally recharged. A different hiking experience. Like in the good old days. And after a few days inland (where I also meet Umberto, who, with his amazing hospitality boosts my hiking spirit and therefore adds a lot to my achievement!) I hit the coast. Different walking. No more rain. Sunny and hot. Mostly enjoyable walking. Having the deep blue sea to my right, always available for a swim, gives me good feeling.

And following a flat, fairly straight route, obviously is flushing my down the boot towards the end of the mainland, compared to the inland route. Together with the lovely company of my friend and future TA, Maria, I tackle Sicily. Leaving the coast, leaving the road. Yet another completely different hiking experience. Remote, wild, hilly. And a volcano. No more water to cool down makes walking in the heat challenging. People I talk to think that I have lost my mind walking in this heat. With my goal so close, I am able to ignore it. Push all the was to Italy's southernmost point. Yet enjoying every day. Completing Italy, completing E1. 

Of all countries hiked, Italy has been by far the most challenging. Not just this year but also last year. Physically, with the heat and the mountainous terrain until reaching the coast but especially mentally. 

Many hours have I thought about it. Trying  to figure the 'why'. Why the mental strugge? Is it the 'walking away from home', the difficulty to connect with the locals, the barely existing hiking culture? Or not knowing if the tracks I walk on are really existing. The uncertainty. The missing identy of E1 in the middle and south of Italy. Maybe a combination. Maybe also the fact that E1 has been consuming me a lot for the past 4 years and I am somewhat tired. 8000 kilometers is a big number to walk. 

Anyway. I made it. I knocked the bastard off. In the end much faster than I anticipated. Better this way than the other way round. 

As I am typing this, I am sitting on a pebbly beach near Taormina, still on Sicily. Enjoying Pizza and Ice Cream. Feeling fulfilled. Proud. And despite all the challenges, I don't regret hiking it a single bit. 

My flight back is on July  4th. Maybe by then, or when I look down from the aircraft, I will have fully realized what I have achieved. 

I already mentioned my gratefulness for the support I received from family back home and friends overseas. Namely Fredy, George and Rob. Also a big thanks goes to Pierangelo from Bernate Ticino and Umberto from Bologna. Your hospitality meant so much to me. And last but not least Maria, who joined me for a couple of days, enduring me and my stubbornness. She is still recovering from her blisters. I hope you can keep your toenails and also hope you could gain some experience for Te Araroa. 

So that was Italy. Most probably, I will also write a quick summary about my whole E1 experience in one last (I promise) blog entry. Stay tuned. 

San Lorenzo to Isola della Correnti

Distance: 20km

I take a slow start into, what I hope would be, my last day. I watch the sunrise, go for an early morning swim, before continuing following the coast along beaches and rocks. A pleasant start. In Marzamemi I stop for a Cappuccino and some chocolate bread. It's hazy. A strong contrast with the deep blue see. Eventually, I go for another swim before reaching Capo Passero, the last town before the end. It is also where I have to walk back tomorrow to catch a northbound bus. Destination unknown. I still have to figure that one out. Not now.

After a resupply I am tackling the last six or so kilometers. Initially along the road, then the beach. After a so far surprisingly unemotional day, the emotions hit me once the Statua del Cristo Redentore, the southern terminus of E1 comes in sight. Spontaneously, I have to think of my first day on E1. I remember it like it was yesterday. 

The beach is packed. A causeway takes me to the statue and a plaque, indicating the terminus of Sentiero Italia (which strangely doesn't go here, but it gives a nice touch anyway).

People are surrounding the statue, taking photos of the "punta più a sud d'Italia" - -engravement. Italy's southernmost point. I walk right past the statue, taking a seat on a grassy spot. I can't hold back a tear or two - torn between "happy I made it" and a bit overwhelmed of the big void. E1 has been consuming me for the past couple of years and suddenly it's over. They are the same feelings I have had after Te Araroa. Feelings I guess many thru-hikers can relate to. 

While sitting there, I notice Isola della Correnti, the island of the currents right in front of me. People are crossing the water. Since two of my trusted followers put some very gentle pressure on me to finish my hike on the island, I put my phone and tracker in a dry bag and head for the sea. Leaving my pack behind on the last few steps feels awfully wrong but observing the people crossing, it would be a terrible idea crossing it with my pack. Crossing the 100 meters of sea is straight forward. Yet, I am in the water up to my throat. Once across, I head straight for the southernmost point. That's definitely it. In fact, I'm on a more southerly latitude than Tunis, Africa. Crazy! 

So until here and no further. I go for a swim. Right where the Ionian and the Mediterranean Sea meet. It's rocky, the waves are throwing me around but it feels amazing. 

I don't hang around too long. It might sound weird but I feel a bit sorry for my pack, left behind on the other side. So I cross back. Back to the statue, where I just sit for another hour or so until it's getting a bit warm. I head to Camping Captain. Located just a few steps away. I check in, pitch my tent in the shade. All the emotions made me feel a bit exhausted. The right moment for a siesta. Now that I finished my hike, I can do that without any urge to carry on. 

Somehow, it feels like someone pulled the plug and all the air is out. I guess it's the combination of the relieve to have arrived and the last couple of long days. Doesn't matter. Until I fly home on July, 4th, I take it easy. Plenty of swimming, maybe a bit of running. Time to process what I have just achieved. 

I'll end the blog entry for today at this time. By the end of the week I'll try to write a summary of E1 in Italy and the whole thing. So stay tuned! 

Pantalica Solarino to San Lorenzo

Distance: 50km

Most probably my second to last day. Mentally it has never been an easy day. Lots of things going through my head. But then again, the beach is calling and that will boost my motivation for sure.

The day starts with 25 kilometers of road walk. Not much to say about that. It's still dark when I encounter a pack of wild dogs on the road. Before hiking in Italy, it would have freak me out but after so many experiences, I just 'shhhhh' them away.

Without taking off my backback, I cover the 25 kilometers in one go and only stop at the first beach for a swim. Gosh, it feels great. Azzurro water, extremely clear. 

From then it's partly beach, partly road. The hike only gets interesting, once I enter

Riserva naturale orientata Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari. Following the official E1 (no markings though), I have to climb over walls and fences. On my left side, the cliff steeply drops into the sea. Eventually, I have to find my way down as well. To steep to descend with my backpack, I have to throw that poor thing down first, me climbing down behind.

I follow a beach and then another one. That's where the naked Dutchy comes into play. Because I stand in front of a estuary, with no plan where to cross. On satellite images it looked harmless enough. In reality not so much. The Dutchman sees me cluelessly standing there at the nudist beach. In German he explains that he has observed several other people crossing from that tree to that small pole than to the big pole, where it will get more than waist deep. So I'd have to hold my pack above my head. Wow, what a description and super accurate. I do a "dry" run without pack and it's exactly as described. So I put everything into drybags and tackle the crossing. Somehow funny that on my second to last day I have my deepest river crossing on E1 and possible of my whole thru-hiking career. 

From then on, walking gets easier and I have time to enjoy the lovely coastal walk. Being a nature reserve and due to turtles laying eggs there, access to the beach is heavily restricted. I was planning on camping there but no chance. So I keep on going, leaving the reserve. Once the next town is only a few hundred meters away, I finally spot a promising looking place. I am waiting until shortly before sunset before pitching my tent. Just to be save. Not that I expect any troubles. 

Some people are passing by, all friendly smiles. 

Having walked further than planned leaves me with a rather short day tomorrow. No need to hurry. I'll enjoy sunrise, go for a coffee into town before tackling the last few kilometers to Sicily's southernmost point. 

Catania to Pantalica Solarino

Distance: 60km

Walking through a big city at 03:30 in the morning gives me a somewhat uneasy feeling. Night owls are still roaming the streets but besides a hooker asking for a cigarette, it's an uneventful walk. An hour later I hit the beach. Dawn is approaching and looking back at Catania with Etna majestically rising behind is simply spectacular. I go for a quick swim before joining a long road walk along a state highway taking me inland. While the shoulders are surprisingly wide, rubbish and the stark smell of rubbish make it slightly unpleasant. The roads are getting quieter and cleaner, the views of the dry, sparse landscape much better. It's actually a very lovely walk in the heat. I can cope with it just fine. Better than the soles of my sandals for sure, which get really soft. As a result, gravel on the road easily penetrates the soft rubber. Every now and then I need to scratch the gravel out of the rubber. They are in a good shape anymore. Fingers crossed they will last another two days 

Walking is a breeze and before I know I arrive in Sortino. Remote and authentic. I like the village. After a second Gelato, I am descending into a valley. Orange and lime trees left and right. It's like diving into another world. Much greener and cooler. By this time, I already have 55 kilometers in my leg and I start feeling tired. Time to look for a spot to camp. I knew it wouldn't be easy so I marked some spots on the map yesterday (thank you Google Street View). With that and a bit of improvising I find a suitable spot amids orange trees. Super tired but super happy after a unexpectedly nice day.

Bivacco Poggio to Catania

Distance: 35km

Once the sun went down, so did the temperature. In fact, I was lighting a small fire.

The temperatures dropped even more overnight. I am surprised how far they dropped when I go out to do my morning business.

My hands and toes feel cold as I continue my halfway round the mountain track. Yet, the views of Etna and the now flatter landscape around are magnificent and make me forget the cold. It feels like it's just me, the volcano and some birds. A very tranquil atmosphere. 

It takes a while until the sun appears from behind the mountain. For once, some warmth is highly appreciated. By then I am already nearing Nicolosi. From there, the hiking experience changes drastically. Busy roads, terrible drivers, drivers throwing garbage out of their window right in front of me and as I descend hot and humid conditions. Without taking a break a push on towards Catania, where I have booked a hotel. The last couple of days have been long and I need some time to plan my last days on the trail.

At exactly 15:00 I arrive at my hotel. Super small room but the view of Catania and the sea from the 16th floor easily compensate for that.

After spending the last 3 hours on busy roads all I need is a bit of rest to wind down. Then it's time for planning upcoming days. 3 maybe 4 more days hiking. I sure am getting close.

Then it's time for some sightseeing. I ask Google what to see. Nothing in particular is standing out. So I just head out, strolling around the busy streets. After a while I have enough of the hustle and bustle, buy some cheese and ice cream and head back to my room, where I have my dinner for one, enjoying the fabulous view. 

Torrente Zavianni to Bivacco Poggio

Distance: 50km

A quiet night on the river and a good sleep. The highlight: Elon Musks satellites forming a long glittering chain on the sky. First time I see them!

Once more we start early, following the river bed to Villafranca, where it is time to say goodbye to Maria. She is heading home to Switzerland from here. Since I am not good at goodbyes, it's quite an emotional affair. As a hard core solo hiker, the last days have been challenging. However, I very much enjoyed the experience and the great company of Maria. Thank you joining me!

I leave her at the bus station. I want to have a closer look at Etna, so I start climbing its northern slope. Not all the way but up to 1900 meters. The beginning of the climb is tough and somehow I manage to get lost, adding some kilometers. Initially, there's a road and a hiking trail. The former seems to be popular with motor bikers. They use the road as their race track, making the road super dangerous to walk. So I opt for the hiking trail. As I get closer to a refugio where I turn east and the road turns west, I spot a biker lying on his back besides the road. He must have hugged the wall. It's not looking good. His buddies are there. Still, I offer my help, which they decline. So I continue, leaving the road and follow the Pista Alto Montana. A wide, sandy and gravelly road leading through forest and lava fields. Super nice to walk, super busy in the beginning. I share it with hikers, bikers and even a Lama trekking group. As I carry on, the track gets more quiet. Clouds were rolling in during the day, engulfing the top of Etna. Yet, the views down the valley are lovely.

At Bivacco Poggio, I decide to call it a day. The cute little two-bunk hut will be my home for tonight. Being at 1900 meters I expect it to be a pleasantly cool night with hopefully another good night sleep. 

Acqua Menta to Torrente Zavianni 

Distance: 25km

Overnighting at 1000 meters above sea level meant considerably lower temperatures and therefore a rather good sleep.

Overall it's similar hiking to yesterday. 4WD tracks and initially great views which eventually disappear completely as low clouds are rolling in from the west. Luckily though I manage to catch a glimpse of the Etna volcano, with what seems to be a bit of snow and smoke at the top. But it's barely visible and I can't make out the detail. Hopefully, the weather will improve a bit until tomorrow.

At least the clouds mean pleasant hiking temperatures. While it's humid, it's not particularly hot. Since Maria is still fighting with her blisters, progress is slow. It's interesting that a slower hiking pace is actually pretty tough on my body. I certainly wasn't expecting that.

Anyway, in proper thru-hiking style, Maria keeps putting one foot in front of the other and so we get closer to Torrente Zavianni, our today's goal (deviating a bit from E1 which makes a detour inland). I try keep her hiking spirit up. 

During the last descent, the weather improves drastically, opening great views of the volcano again, which has gotten much closer since the morning. But not only the volcano but also the wide, dry riverbed of Torrente Zavianni far below looks interesting and I am looking forward to following it.

It takes a while to kill the 600 vertical meters. I don't mind as there is more time to enjoy the view. 

We make it to the river just before 18:30. Well, it's more of a stream. Easily crossed. On the other side, we quickly find a place to pitch the tent. Not perfect but for Maria it's been enough hiking.

I'm quite proud of her achievement. The temperatures, the tough pebble beach walk earlier this week and continuing despite hurting toes. Tomorrow, she will head back to Switzerland. I really hope the time on E1 helped for her Te Araroa preparation. 

Torre Faro to Acqua Menta

Distance: 45km

I have never been to Africa. But somehow it feels like Africa when I take my first steps on Sicilian soil. Beige sky, hazy. Sand must be in the air. The sun barely able to shine through. And it's hot. Very hot already as I walk back towards Messina, where I took the bus earlier this morning to Torre Faro. Yes I know, thru-hikers do weird stuff. But it's what E1 wants us hikers to walk.

After a long day yesterday and a short night, I feel a bit exhausted. Especially in combination with the heat. A quick swim fixes the problem and I feel like a new person. Eventually, I leave the coast near Messina and head up into the hills, where I meet Maria, who took the bus.

From there, the walk gets extremely pretty. Initially on a tar-sealed road then on more or less rough 4WD tracks with phenomenal views left and right and some proper hiking track in the end. It's hazy but clear enough to see the mainland. 

The trail stays in between 800 and 1000 meters above sea level. Not too much up and down which is especially appreciated by Maria. While it is hot it's also windy, actually making it not too unpleasant to walk. At least for me. I don't think Maria would agree :D

So Ww take it easy, leaving enough time for breaks. 

Water supply is challenging. Luckily  just an hour before pitching our tent, we find Aqua Lima - a fountain. Without this one, I fear we would have run into problems tomorrow. It's already 18:00 but we (Maria ;) decide to carry on. While that last bit on a hiking trail offers more spectacular views it's also slow going. With no suitable camping spot, we walk and walk and walk. Then, just when the sun is about to set, we reach a gravel road and some great camping spot. A long, but fulfilling day. And obviously I am very happy to see Maria up and running again. 

First day in Sicily complete. While I was initially a bit worried about the heat, it wasn't as bad as I thought. And then there were the views, an absolute highlight. I am now really looking forward to hiking across the island in the coming days. 

Mimosa Campground to Villa San Giovanni (Sicily Ferry Terminal) 

Distance: 60km

While eating tomato and cheese wraps at the beach, watching the sunset, we decided that a Zero Day for Maria would be the most sensible thing. No sense in making things worse by road walking the whole day. 

I leavy early today. Very early. With the heat wave in full swing and temperatures up to 35 degrees Celsius, I am on the trail before 04:00 to have at least a few hours with pleasant temperatures. And I want to make it to the Ferry Terminal today - finishing mainland Europe. 

The gate of the campground is locked, so I am forced to leave it via the backdoor and onto the beach, which I follow for a couple of hundred meters. Two dogs roaming around the beach in the dark scare me. After that encounter, I am definitely awake. Eventually, I rejoin the road, walk past a village and a port. As it is getting brighter I can see all the shipping containers. MSC, HamburgSüd, Maersk,... One of the few constant things on my hike. Since south Sweden, I spot them on ports and highways. 

The air smells of sewage and burned rubber. A terrible combination and something I don't need in the early morning. Until late morning, the walk is fairly underwhelming. Depressing at times,  as I make my way through dirty cities and villages. Things improve once I get closer to Bagnara. The views are excellent, in fact I can clearly make out Torre Faro, a decommissioned tall high voltage power line pylon, on Sicily, the trail head of E1 in Italy. 

The Strada Stato 18, the road I have been following on and off since Salerno is not overly busy. Fruitstands left and right of the road give it a somehow non-European feeling. 

Maria is waiting for me in Bagnara where we swim in Crystal clear water. Surrounded by high hills it feels amazing. While I am continuing my walk, Maria is planning. Arranging the ferry crossing, booking accommodation. It's wonderful having someone taking care of background. Thank you! 

After another quick rendezvous in Scilly, I walk the final 10 kilometers to the ferry terminal, my end point of mainland Europe. 

Literally 10 meters before reaching the terminal, I stand in front of a fence. I must have myself navigated into a dead end. I squeeze through somehow. It's a somewhat typical ending of my hike across mainland Italy. 

The arrival is far less emotional than I thought it to be. Maybe it's the crowded, dirty location. Maybe the fact there's still some stuff to do. Mainly resupply. Which is not easy. Once more, shops on the map do not exist, a walk through the messy city of Villa San Giovanni unavoidable. Not exactly what I need after 60 kilometers of hiking. I meet Maria in the shopping center. I feel a bit sorry for her, as she has to deal with my temporary frustration. She tries her best to keep my hiking spirits up. It helps and once we board the vessel the earlier struggles are slowly forgotten. 

The sail across the straight is amazing. Heading straight for the sun, which is setting behind the mountain range I would be walking tomorrow.

Vibo Valentia to Mimosa Campground

Distance: 35km

The long day yesterday left some marks on Maria's feet. Not the beach walk but on the last 10 kilometers on the road she caught some blisters.

So we take it slow today as we leave Vibo Valentia. The surrounding of first few kilometers to a place called Aeroporto looks rather depressing with many buildings that were never completely finished. A landscape of concrete skeletons.

The scenery improves as we follow a quiet, windy road towards Nicotera. People are greeting us. I can imagine not many tourists, especially hikers, find themselves in this area, located a few kilometers inland. While walking the road and coming around a corner, we notice that the hills of Sicily are visible through the hazy air. An extremely emotional moment for me. A moment I have been waiting for a long time.

Every now and then we stop so Maria can treat her blisters. In Nicotera we treat ourselves with an ice cream. While eating it and admiring the scenery two South Tyrolean cycles that we briefly met on Falerna campground two days before, come around the corner. Super friendly people who are cycling the length of Italy. We have a nice chat and then they carry on. Their goal today: Sicily! But they don't get far. A couple of hundred meters later, they surprise us with a few beers. How cool is that! 

Some more interesting talk follows. They sure are enjoying their retirement. 

It's then definitely time to say goodbye. We carry on down to the beach, walk in the pine forest behind it all the way to the campground. A big one. Certainly the biggest I stayed so far in Italy. With a swimming pool, bar and restaurant, it brings back childhood memories from our camping holidays on Italy's east coast. 

As I am writing this, I am sitting in a comfy beach chair, looking at Maria swimming in the sea. The sea breeze keeping me cool. A great feeling after a day in southern Italy's summer heat. 

Falerna to Vibo Valentia

Distance: 40km

A leisurely stroll along the beach. That's what I am hoping our day to be like when we leave Falerna. 

Well, it starts quite okay but eventually the  sandy beach turns into a gravelly then into a pebbly one. Initially, we are able to walk along promenades and the road. However, due to the lack of alternatives once past the Lamnezia Airport (which was surprisingly busy and which I like of course), it is 10 kilometers of tough going in the mid-day heat. Luckily the water keeps us cool and for the last 5 kilometers, going gets easier again. Otherwise, I don't think we would have made it. 

The struggle of walking the beach are quickly forgotten once we enjoy a delicious Tortufo Ice Cream in the Tortufo capital of Pizzo. After a final climb to Vibo Valentia we decide to take a B&B for the night. With unpacking and showering complete, we had out at 20:30 and head straight to the closest pizzeria. Way too late for dining for me as a Swiss but hey, we are in Italy and do it Italian style. 

It's a fantastic pizza  that we enjoy and a great way to end a challenging day. Out there on the balcony on a warm summer evening. 

I am super proud of Maria. The day with the beach walk was much harder than I expected. Yet, she did amazing. I told her, that 90 Miles Beach is a piece of cake compared to what we have done today. 

Hopefully, she won't be to exhausted tomorrow. 

Paola to Falerna

Distance: 45km

As I was lying in my tent last evening, my tent was vibrating with every train passing through. I was thinking "oh no, that is going to be an uncomfortable night"

However, 10 minutes later I was fast asleep and remained so until nearly 04:00. Wake-up time anyway.

With my headlamp on, I pass through the tiny tunnel and hit the promenade. I follow it and also walk on the beach for a couple of kilometers before going inland. The beach is too soft to cover longer distances and with no more promenade, I take a back road to Amantea. I planning on doing resupply. I pass several big stores but want to do the shopping at the last store. Mistake. Google Maps is inaccurate and there's nothing but a pharmacy. I curse. There's literally no more food in my pack.

So I eat a big ice cream at a Cafe. Keeps me going. And then, after walking past hundreds of fig trees, finally a tree with some ripe figs. I take a couple of them. Jeeps me going again.

Several times I do swim stops. The water is getting clearer the further south I get. Once I get lucky when I spot a secluded spot from the road. Swimming between the rocks in the clear water. Amazing.

I keep on going. Trying my luck once more with beach walking. And finally, the ground gets firmer. A pleasure to walk on.

I'm also happy for Maria, a good friend from the Engadin and future Te Araroa walker, who is joining me for a couple of days. She will have a bit of nice beach to start her hike with.

After finally doing my resupply, I meet Maria at the bus station. Great to see her again! We hit the beach immediately. It's 18:30 already with still a few kilometers to go. Feels great having some company! 

The sand gets softer with every step so we are both happy, when we reach our campground, more or less right in time for sunset, which is once more spectacular. 

Fiume Lao to Paola

Distance: 55km

A quiet night if it wasn't for a couple of idiots lighting a firework at the beach in the middle of the night. But I fell asleep rather quickly. 

The friendly security guard is already waiting, when I approach the gate. I was told yesterday, he would open it for me.

After some small talk, I am on my way again. I am doing more road walk than I was planning because the gravelly sand is very slow going. So after a kilometer I give up and follow a mix of promenades sidewalks and roads.

In Diamante, I get invited for a coffee by the owner of a Cafe. In return I pose for photo for the Cafe's Facebook page. Seems like I get some local fame :D

In the next village, I stop for some pastries. One of them a chocolate croissant. Nearly bursting because it's stuffed with chocolate. Exactly the way I like it. Unlike these pathetic ones with just a trace of chocolate. 

This one is keeping me full for a while. 

Overall, it's a good day walking. I eventually stop counting my numbers of swimms today. The beaches are so plentiful and accessible, I can't resist. Especially, around lunch time and early afternoon, when the heat is my biggest enemy.

As I try to avoid wild camping in this rather busy area, I Google a campground in Paola. Missing language skills on both ends make check in a challenge. Eventually, it works though. Super basic,but enough

Everything I need (water, electricity and a hot shower). 20 meters from the railway line connecting Calabria with the north. The boulder beach is accessible via a narrow tunnel beneath the tracks. I'm sitting there as I am writing this. Enjoying yet another lovely sundowner.

Sapri to Fiume Lao

Distance: 45km

A warm night, but dry. Which is always appreciated since packing a wet tent is not much fun.

I take my time packing as I want to walk the road with enough daylight. It's a spectacular road, carved into a sheer rock face, winding its way to Matarea. Facing west, there's no sun, but there are no cars either. So I can pay all my attention to the views.

With the sun come the cars. But only for a short while since there are signs saying the road is blocked ahead. Waking the detour would mean nearly an additional day, so I push on, trying my luck. Walking into a possible cul-de-sac is not easy mentally. Once there, I see plenty of workers (on a Saturday! In Italy!) and a big "no access" sign. So I try Plan B: bush bashing. I get lucky, eventually stumble across a bulldozed track. After 3 or so kilometers I am back on the road. A bit of excitement.

At this point, I have been walking for 6 hours straight. Never took off my pack. So I treat myself with a swim, having a chat with Younes, a refuge from Marocco. He suggests to continue my hike across his country once I finish in Sicily. Well, never say never but it might be a tad hot.

Writing of the temperature: it's early afternoon, the heat is daunting. As I walk above the steep cliff again, I look down at the azzurro colored sea. So pretty. So inviting. I leave the road, head down. Find my self a spot beneath a rock. The beach is busy but I understand why. Feels secluded, yet easy to reach. After two swims and a bit of dolce far niente, I continue. Nothing too exciting to write about the last couple of kilometers. As I walk through Scalea, I do resupply. Resupply in Italy, always a pain. Somehow I find the stores so confusing. It takes me ages to find what I need.

Luckily, I have plenty of time and arrive at Lao Campground just after 17:00. It's just me. No other camper. And it's Saturday evening. Oh well, I don't mind. No need to be quiet tomorrow morning.

The waves are big, swimming not really possible. It's a wild but wonderful beach, reminding me of one of the many New Zealand west coast beaches. So I enjoy my quiet evening, just enjoying the atmosphere. 

Torrente Fiumicello to Sapri

Distance: 60km

Finally a night with some decent sleep. Therefore, getting up and starting my hike goes quite easily. It's a clear but extremely humid morning. It feels like you could cut the air with a knife.

Initially, I follow the coast but the big chunk of today's hike is further inland. I follow quiet roads, pass through, what I would consider as very authentic Italian villages. I stop for coffee and ice cream but generally keep moving. Only in Bosco, my favorite town of today, I take some detour. Such a picturesque place with amazing views. It's also where my feet need some attention. Blisters.

I am then descending back to the sea. Walking down here, along busy roads, is not much fun. However, swimming in the sea and the costal views (that remind me of Norway) are well worth it. My body feels excellent. I probably could go on much further. The sun is setting however, and I pitch it where I had intended to (I checked the place out beforehand with Google street view).

I pitch the tent and end a long, fulfilling day with some delicious smoked cheese. 

Vatolla to Torrente Fiumicello

Distance: 35km

Müesli with melons and apricots, scrambled eggs, bread with homemade marmelade, fruite juice and two capuchino. I take my sweet time today.

After saying goodbye to my wonderful hosts, I hit the trail just after 09:00. The rain has stopped and the sky looks rather friendly as I make my way through picturesque villages along quiet roads. A pleasant walk. Eventually, I am leaving the hills for the coast again. Busier, generally uglier looking. Still, the sea is nice and I go for a quick swim. As the coastline is steep, the road climbs again. According to Google maps it's closed. I am slightly worried because if couldn't walk the road, it would mean a looooong way round. An additional day at least. The road is closed indeed. Big concrete blocks blocking the way. But on foot, easy to navigate through.

Since it's already 18:00, I decide to use this quiet stretch of road to camp. Unfortunately, a heavy rain shower is passing through just before I want to start pitching my tent. I wait. I get soaked. I curse. Such an unlucky timing. However, I am glad I waited. To soil is hard as rock. I am not able to hammer my pegs into the ground and need to improvise. In the end, after hard work and getting bloody fingers, the tent is standing. Nothing more. If there's going to be wind... That won't be fun.

Anyway, for now, I am happy to have found a spot. Not an easy undertaking when following the coast here. And I am also happy and relieved that the weather should finally improve. No more rain, no more thunderstorms. And it should already be like this from tomorrow onwards! Fingers crossed it will really happen! 

Salerno Camping to Vatolla

Distance: 45km

As the previous night, my sleep is not good at all. I stay awake most of the time. And I can't really figure out why. 

I hit the beach shortly before 05:00. Everything goes well until I want to cross a first river. On the satellite image it looks like a harmless enough crossing. In reality... Not so much. I do a trial run without backpack.  I make it across but I am in the water waist deep. On the way back, I get swept away by the current. It needs quite an effort to swim back ashore. And this all happens before 06:00. What a start into my day. 

Crossing with the backpack is a clear no go. Since the beaches are mostly private, there's no access to the road. I backtrack. A 30 minutes detour. Not what I need. I cross the river via the bridge and rejoin the beach. But only for a wee while. A small port is blocking my way and again no way out. I squeeze under a gate. Rejoin the busy road. Narrow, no side walk. A terrible walk. My hiking spirit reaches a daily low. Not what I expected my beach walk day to be like.

But I don't give up. Rejoin the beach once more. This time it's a wonderful beach walk all the way to Agropoli. Several times, I go for a swim. The beaches slowly but surely become busier. I wonder what people think of me walking the beach with a big backpack. I come to the conclusion they probably think I am just another guy trying to sell fake clothes or watches. Totally fine with me. 

I leave the beach at Agropoli, head inland again. Spontaneously, I decide looking for a dry roof. The weather forecast for tonight and tomorrow morning is getting worse by the minute. I get lucky, find a very affordable bed and breakfast close to the trail. A short backtrack but I am used to that already. 

I arrive 30 minutes after making the reservation. The hosts, a outgoing Austrian couple, welcome me their lovely place with great views. They offer to cook me dinner. I am glad I accepted because it's delicious. After some nice talk and self made liquor, I excuse myself and head to my room. I'll take it slow tomorrow. The last 6 days have been rather long ones and I don't feel like heading out into the rain that early. 

Ospedaletto d'alpinolo to Camping Salerno

Distance: 50km

I wasn't able to find the apparently best chocolate in Italy while strolling around the town yesterday. A shame but life goes on.

After a light sleep I pack and leave my room just before 05:00. As I stumble through the lobby, half asleep, the night portier (yes, I am as surprised as you that there's one) offers me an espresso. What a nice surprise and lovely start into the day.

A hiking day, which begins with walking some quiet back roads through hazelnut plantations. As I learnt yesterday, Nutella is made out of hazelnuts from this region. As I get closer to Salerno, the area gets more densely populated, the roads busier. Initially, it's interesting walking through all these busy villages, observing the locals. Eventually, as the I approach the suburbs, it's not too much fun anymore.

Therefore, I am relieved once I arrive in Salerno and full of joy once I see the sea. It's been a long time on E1 since I have walked the beach. In the region of Kiel in Germany if I remind correctly.

It's drizzling. What else would you expect. Nevertheless, I head straight for the beach, go for a swim. Feels so good. All the struggle of this morning forgotten. I continue walking. Not on the beach. Soft terrain and private beaches make it impossible. So I walk on the road towards Salerno Lido Campground. While doing so, the weather improves dramatically. I go for another swim.

I wouldn't consider the beach, nor the shore as particularly pretty. Dirty, run down, lots of deserted buildings. But I don't care. As long as there's beach access every now and then, I am happy.

I arrive at the campground at 18:30, get placed next to a girl cycling Italy. It's a decent campground with direct access to the beach, where I enjoy another swim and a spectacular sunset. My second night on a campground on E1. The first one was day 1 on E1. It's been a while! 

Taburno to Ospedaletto D'alpinolo

Distance: 45km

After a very peaceful night I continue my walk through the beech forest. The scenic views are rare but the once I have are wonderful. Fog swapping over the hills below. A special sight.

Once down in the valley, I enter the city of Montesarchio. Utterly depressing in its appearance I think. Things are not getting better as I follow a busy road. 

Things change once I enter San Martino. A cute town, perfect for a break. I then enter  Parco Partenio. The only road through the is closed and I am a bit worried I might have to turn around. But I don't. It's a lovely walk. At Lago Maggiore (not the big one in Switzerland) I meet Donato and his nice family. They offer me a pannini, which I gladly accept. During our conversation, dark clouds are rolling in, the smell of rain in the air. They offer me a ride. As much as I would like to accept, I can't. No cheating. So I continue and shortly after get into a nasty thunderstorm. Heavy rain leaves me soaked within seconds and coffee bean sized hailstones hitting my head hurt. Dripping wet I enter the Cafe at Santuario Di Montevergine. Quite a famous place. While I sip an espresso, the thunderstorm keeps raging right above the sanctuary. I'm a bit clueless what I should do. It doesn't seem like the weather is changing anytime soon. 

I don't really feel like camping tonight so I check for hotels. There's one around 10 kilometers away and it sounds and looks luxurious! At 40 Euros quite a bargain. I pull the trigger. 

With a hot shower waiting for me, I am flying down the steep but well maintained track. Still raining, still thunder and lightning. It's amazing how my mindset has changed over the last couple of days. I don't mind the rain. I accept it and see the positive side. Makes my trail life so much better. 

Freshly showered and dry now. I'll finish the blog then head out to explore the town. I heard they are famous for their chocolate. As good as the Swiss one or even better. Let's see! 

Bocca della Selva to Taburno

Distance: 50km

A wonderful evening and suitable ending of Day 200 with a little bit (too much) local Liquor. 

I feel like a train wreck, when I pack my stuff. It's only 04:30 when I have coffee with Umberto, who kindly gets up early to say goodbye.

The day starts with a steep descent, with spectacular views of the foggy valley below, followed by a mostly flat middle part, walking through vineyards and the odd olive trees. I am listening to music, with my eyes chasing a bright orange easyJet Airbus lazily descending towards, what I assume, Napoli. It's at this very moment I somehow feel fully at peace. Happy. Maybe the combination of these factors make me feel this way. This feeling comes quickly, unexpectedly. And as quickly as it came, it disappears again. And it's definitely gone, once I am stuck in a massive construction site. New highway or rail road it seems. A déjà-vu. Happened to me just south of Hamburg. 

The site is fenced in, I throw my backpack over the fence, then climb under it. Twice. I don't like doing it. Feels wrong. But walking back feels even more wrong.

I reach buzzing Solopaca in time for the daily lunch time downpour. Just before it starts bucketing, I have a chat with some local kids playing football on the main piazza. Then we all seek shelter. Once more I use the time wisely. Writing the blog for my trusted followers ;)

Then it's up again. Back above 1000 meters above sea level. As always, these last kilometers are tough. It's drizzling but nothing dramatic. The forest left and right of the road is full of picnic areas. Finding a place to camp is super easy.

I settle in. Perfectly flat spot within beech forest, no cell phone reception. A welcome change. 

Castelpizzuto to Bocca della Selva

Distance: 50km

I haven't reached my destination for today. I'm halfway through the day, 30 kilometers down and at 20 kilometers to go. Since I am currently stuck in Campitelli Matesi, a skiing field, due to a heavy downpour, why not using my time wisely and write a bit for my blog.

200 days! Day 1, my start at Nordkapp, is still present. It feels like yesterday. A wonderful day, leaving the cape just as the sun rays break through the fog. One of my, if not my most favorite, days on the trail. Then Day 100, reaching Smygehuk. A mostly sunny day, even though I got caught in a rain shower. The first one in two weeks. Gosh, that was some stunning weather I had back up there in southern Sweden.

These memories, in situations like this, being stuck under a tiny roof from a deserted restaurant, which help me keep going. Yes, I might be unlucky with the weather right now, but I also had the pleasure to enjoy some fabulous weather along the way. In fact, looking back, I was incredibly lucky. Also this bad weather period will eventually dissappear. Maybe not today, maybe not tomorrow. But it will change.

I have a good sleep. Only disturbed by a passing tractor and some light rain in the morning. Rain always feels respectively sounds worse when inside the tent, than it actually is. So when I get out of my tent, it's not nearly as bad as I have feared and I can pack without getting to wet. After a bit of a rough 4WD track in the beginning, going is easy. Up and down but never too steep. I decide on following roads. Adds kilometers but better for my nerves. The light rain eventually stops only to start again, this time heavy, just as I reach Campitelli Matesi, where I luckily find some shelter. Sooner than later, the rain stops and I am on my way again. Following a scenic road, closed for vehicles. The views improve as I go. It's a pleasant walk, if it wasn't for the live stock guard dogs (or however you call them), acting quite aggressively as I pass by cows, goats and sheep. Obviously, they just do their job, nevertheless, I feel a bit uncomfortable.

Day 200. Not as spectacular as the previous "anniversaries", yet an overall pleasent day on the trail. But wait... 

I have just passed the 50 kilometer mark, when someone is waving from me from a porch, inviting me for a cafe. Gladly I accept. A bit of socializing is exactly what I need. Once dark clouds are rolling over the hills, Umberto, a very friendly police officer from Bologna invites me to spend the night at his place. Trail magic! 

While it's pouring down outside, I enjoy a hot shower, a delicious meal and a good time in front of the fire place. Well... after all a day to remember! 

And what about day 300? Unsless I turn into a snail, day 300 won't happen. My optimistic plan is that I will finish within the next 30 days. But that's still far away. Until then, I take every day as it comes. Step by step. 

San Pietro Avellana to Castelpizzuto

Distance: 50km

Despite camping right next to the cemetery, no ghost was visiting me last night. Or at least I didn't notice. My sleep was wonderfully deep.

Well rested I hit the trail on a chilly, foggy morning. The first 20km are along quiet roads. Unspectacular. Highlight: a fox being chased by a cat. Somehow, I don't really find my rhythm and going is a bit rough. Anyway, I make good progress, only slowed down when leaving the road, following, or trying to follow hiking paths. Whenever I do so, it's a struggle. No marking, no visible path at times, muddy. I waste time and battery using GPS to navigate. With each of these experiences, I'm inclined to choose road walking when I have the choice.

I pass through busy villages, trying to talk with locals, who wonder what I am doing. With hands and feet I try to explain and sometimes I have the feeling people actually understand.

As the hours are passing by, I still feel a bit powerless. At least the wonderful views towards the end help me to keep going. After 50km, I feel my energy level drop to zero. Mentally and physically exhausted. Time to pitch my tent. Luckily, I find a suitable, well actually perfect, spot right beside the road. Flat, sheltered, decent view. I cook and eat my porridge, brush my teeth and as soon as I have finished the blog, I will call it a day. Time to recharge my body. 

Sulmoma to San Pietro Avellana

Distance: 50km

Only thanks to a sprint across Milano Centrale train station I made the connection. The train was already pulling out of the station, when the train staff is showing me my private "suite". If I hadn't made the connection, it would have been a miserable 9 hour wait in Milano.

I got offered linen and a free snack, then made myself comfortable for the 6 hour ride to Pescara. 

While I didn't sleep much, it is still a very pleasant experience on board the sleeper train. I get off at 04:00 in Pescara and take a bus to Sulmoma. Shortly past 06:00 I am on the trail again, walking through a Sulmoma, which is waking up. Cafés are opening, old men gather around Tabacchis, reading newspapers. It's a lively city and also a pretty one. Nonetheless, I keep walking, just stopping for a couple of photos. The urge to continue is immense. 

So I walk and walk and walk, mostly roads initially. It's 12:00, I am close to Pescoconstanzo, when I feel the first rain drops. I say to myself "there won't be a lot of rain" and I keep walking. Then out of nowhere it starts pouring down. I find some shelter under roof, watching the road turning into a river. As the rain eases, I continue. With my changed attitude towards rain, walking in it goes easier. Nevertheless, when it gets too strong, I seek shelter. 

People that I meet along the way are all smiling at me. It seems like thru-hikers are a rare sight and the people seem genuinely interested. Once past Roccacinquemiglia, the tracks are getting terrible. Overgrown, muddy (it literally feels like the Northland forests on Te Araroa), not a single marker. Rain keeps coming. Ticks and mosquitoes join the party as well. I start feeling tired. Strangely, I manage to most3keep my hiking spirit up. Shortly before 20:00 I make it out of the mud hell. Pitch my tent at the first possible location right behind a cemetery. Nothing amazing but practical. My first campspot with a water source since Firenze! 

Last week, I spontaneously decided to take a couple of days off trail. I wouldn't call them zero days but people I stayed in regular contact with knew, I was struggling a bit mentally on the trail in the beginning. Eventually, I got into the flow. Nevertheless, I then spontaneously decided to take a break. Mainly because of the weather but also to gather my thoughts. I'm still not sure whether it was the right decision or not. In the end it shouldn't matter I hope. 

Now, four days later I am sitting in a EuroCity train inbound Milan, where I will board a night train to Pescara. If everything goes according to plan, I will be back on trail by 06:30 tomorrow morning.

The weather has been amazing over the last few days and I spent my time, when not planning, running and swimming in the lake, where I could completely forget the challenges my Italy-thruhike is throwing at me.

Tomorrow, I will start facing then again. The weather hasn't improved that much but I tried to mitigate the other challenges by amending the route, mainly following roads, avoiding hiking tracks. It took time to do so and I have no idea how it's going to play out. I will see tomorrow. For now, I sit back, relax some more and enjoy the ride. 

Nucleo Area Artiginale (Raiano) to Sulmona

Distance: 10km

Sleeping in a recording studio means absolutely no outside noise. Good sleep? Well, not really. My head is spinning. But I'll come back to that later.

At 06:00, I leave my Airbnb, bound for Sulmona, where I would catch a train to Pescara for a quick beach getaway. It's flat, straightforward.

On the way there, I rewind my overnight thoughts. Should I take a couple of more days off trail than just a day? The daily thunderstorms, which commence around noon, and the not better looking outlook make me think that way. Obviously, the trail is still walkable but it's also a bit of a pity always getting tense as soon as I tilt my head up and look at the clouds, never knowing if I get into a storm. 

In Sulmona I board the train, taking me to Pescara. Still not sure what to do. As soon as I arrive in Pescara, I head straight for the beach. Walking in the sand feels amazing and so does the quick swim in the warm water. As soon as I come out of the sea, I decide to take a week or so off trail. It's not an easy decision since I just recently found great pleasure again in walking. This will certainly disrupt the flow but my respect of  thunderstorms and plenty of time on my hands outweight it.

Spontaneously, I book a train north, back home. Stable weather and better options to recharge.

Already now, as I am sitting in the Eurocity Train, I am looking forward to rejoining the trail. That's the way it should be. I'll be back! 

Castelvecchio Calvisio to Nucleo Area Artiginale (Raiano)

Distance: 35km

No church bells, no barking dogs, no rain. After an uneventful night, I leave for lower lands. Mostly along back roads and farm roads I make my way towards Popoli then Raiano. There really is not much to write about today. After spending the last couple of days generally above 1000m, today I spend most of my day between 250 and 350m. The sun is shining relentlessly, going is though as I pass plenty of vineyards and olive trees.

I booked an Airbnb for tonight. Nothing fancy. Just practical. With internet, a small kitchenette. Nothing more.

After a bit more than 35km I arrive there at 15:00. Settle in, dry my wet tent and start my planning for the next few days.

As of now, I intend on roughly following Sentiero Italia/E1 until the vicinity of Napoli but then, instead of going inland again, follow the coast. Yes, it's going to be plenty of road walk. But honestly, I have seen enough of the hilly Italian inland. I miss the sea breeze, the beaches, the swimming in the sea. It's still a couple of days until I will reach the sea. Until then, I continue the up and down inland.

Tomorrow I want it to be a bit of a different day. I will start at 06:00, walk to Sulmoma, where I am planning on boarding a train to Pescara. A short getaway from the trail. Just for a few hours. Just to stand with my toes in the sand, before returning back to the trail later tomorrow. Beating the heat and hopefully the thunderstorms which are still making my trail life a lot more complicated. 

San Pietro della Ienco to Castelvecchio Calvisio

Distance: 35km

03:33 - in a Big Ben fashion, the little church's bell start playing a melody. My pulse goes from 50 to 150 bpm until I realize, what is happening. From that moment on, the bells are announcing every quarter of an hour. That's it with sleeping.

Everything is still damp and it's an uncomfortable start into my day. The weather looks nice though. Only some high stratus like clouds. I continue along the road and eventually join Sentiero Italia, which I didn't want to follow yesterday due to weather and possible snow along the way. The walk today is on high plains, predominantly above the treeline. The views therefore spectacular. Despite Corno Grande, the highest peak of the Appenine, engulfed in clouds, I still get some decent views of the snow covered mountains.

As I make my way down, as usual, cumulonimbus clouds are building up. They are not an immediate threat though. I pass by two middle age looking villages. Pretty spectacular in fact. I decide to have a coffee in the second. Bad decision. The second village looks like a ghost town though. No coffee no nothing. At least I find some water in the cemetery. Like in good old Germany.

Shortly after having filled my bottles, I find a sweet spot to pitch my tent. Sheltered, yet still some good views. A rare combination. It's only 16:00 but my body says: enough! So I pitch my tent. Good decision. Shortly afterwards, a heavy rain shower passes through. With plenty of time left, I start planning the next couple of days. It's straight forward. Only the continously unsettled weather is worrying me a bit. 

San Tomaso to San Pietro della Ienca

Distance: 50km

How does one say: the higher you climb, the harder you fall?

After the previous two amazing hiking days with plenty of highlights, today is a tough day. It already starts when I wake up to the sound of rain. A sound I dislike a lot in the morning, in a tent. Reluctantly, I pack my wet tent and leave my campspot. The rain makes me feel cold instantly. By the time I reach Amatrice, yet another village basically completely gone, I feel very uncomfortable. After a quick resupply in a temporary barrack, the sun quickly comes out as I walk a muddy, rough trail towards Lago di Compotosto. The first lake in 10 days! I can't resist and jump into the water before continuing my walk. The weather turns bad again. Along the road, I meet three straying dogs. Initially, they make me feel a bit uncomfortable as they are following me but I soon recognize they are really friendly. Once the weather goes from bad to worse, I find shelter in a ruin next to the road. The dogs join me and together we hold a who-looks-the-most-miserable-competion. Eventually, I carry on, leaving the dogs behind. I look back over my shoulder several times, secretly wish they'd follow me, as I really start to enjoy their company. In fact, it's this encounter was my today's highlight.

I think the weather can't get any worse. But it does. It pours. Heavy, heavy rain. I feel exhausted. It's just too much rain. A try to change my mindset. Seeing something good in the rain. It's not easy but it makes it a bit more bearable. 

Eventually, I reach a small settlement. I pitch my tent. I do it in front of the church. Probably highly illegal but I couldn't care less. 

It's still raining. My tent is barely coping with the water. From above and below. I really hope it will eventually stop. 

Poggio di Fonte Chiusa to San Tommaso

Distance: 40km

A cold night. Therefore, my sleep wasn't that good. 

I wake well before 04:00 and eventually get ready to leave. The walk is continuing as it ended yesterday: spectacular. After 3 hours I reach Castelluccio. A bit of a detour but worth every extra step.

While the village itself got mostly destroyed by an earthquake and thus is off-limits, the view down a massive flat area are breathtaking. And then there's the live webcam of Castelluccio. While I initially stand at the wrong place, too close to the camera, I eventually move into the picture and get spotted by some of my most trusted followers.

Since the cumulus are towering again, even earlier than yesterday, I keep on walking. Thunderstorm cells everywhere. Just as one comes very close, I enter the temporarily relocated village of Accumoli, where to my surprise, the Cafe is open. Inside I meet Francesco, a wonderful hiker and firefighter from Trento. He's doing a hike connecting different areas, all affected by earthquakes. As it turns out, we both are avgeeks and spend probably 2 hours talking about aircraft. It feels great to have a longer, deeper conversation with someone after hardly talking to anyone for over a week. By the time we say goodbye, the rain has stopped and I continue my hike. The last couple of kilometers are rough and the trail not always easy to find. Luckily, it's surprisingly well marked. Which I appreciate because due all the earthquake damage, the maps I am using are not always accurate.

Good places to pitch my tent are rare and before getting into populated areas again I pitch it just a short distance from a farm in the forest. The farm dog is barking and I have already spotted four boars. I'm not convinced I'm going to have a peaceful night. 

Colfiorito to Poggio di Fonte Chiusa

Distance: 40km

A barking dog wakes me up shortly after 3 in the morning. I close the window. Quiet. But I can't fall asleep again. Bugger. Instead of just lying around, I pack and hit the trail at around 05:30 on a chilly Monday morning. A bit of road walk (I follow the road a bit longer and join E1 a bit later) before I continue following grassy ridges again. Especially the second part of today is spectacular. Great trails, even better views with snow covered peaks now slowly appearing. 

Today, it is more up and down though. From 1200m down to 500m and up to 1400m again and then some more up and down. My body feels well and I cover the vertical meters without too much hassle.

What causes me some headache is the weather though. Cumulus clouds are towering quickly and soon enough I am surrounded by Cumulunimbus clouds. But I am lucky. First there's a big cell ahead of me. Thanks to the north easterly winds it gets blown away from me. Then there's one behind me, catching up quickly. Since I marked some sheltered spots on the map yesterday, I know it's not far anymore to one of them and decide to camp there despite only being 16:30. The next sheltered spot is 8 kilometers away. Too far to make it today and don't really feel like getting into storm in the middle of it.

I'll start early tomorrow again, trying to beat the thunderstorms.

But for now I made myself comfortable in my tent. The thunderstorm disappeared and all that was left of it were some rain drops. Nevertheless, it was the correct decision for me and in the end I am happy I didn't end up all miserable in the middle of a thunderstorm. 

Passo del Termini to Colfiorito

Distance: 20km

Rarely have I sleep so well in my tent. 1 only wake up once and therefore hit the trail well rested. It's a straightforward walk today. Not too many vertical meters and mostly along roads.

I am taking it slow, timing my arrival time in Colfiorito at 10:30 - the check-in time at the hotel. After some long, physically and mentally challenging days, I decided to treat myself with a hotel. To relax a bit, collecting my thoughts. And of course: take a shower. I'm not too picky when it comes to not washing myself for a couple of days but after 7 days in the heat, sweating like a bull and without any lake or river to wash myself in, I'm in desperate need of a shower.

Besides the mentioned things, I will resupply and plan my next couple of days (the Abruzzo mountains still look like off limits to me because of the snow). Also the weather is worrying me a bit as daily afternoon thunderstorms will make my trail life a bit harder. 

Other than that, there's really not much to here in Colfiorito other than just Dolce far niente without feeling guilty of missing out on something. 

Punta Sassopecoraro to Passo del Termini

Distance: 40km

It was very windy yesterday evening, when I pitched my tent. I was sure, the wind would decrease, once the sun sets. I was wrong. It kept rocking my tent throughout the night, making a good sleep impossible.

Not surprisingly, I wake up early. Tired from the noise of the wind I start packing. Quickly, as the wind chill is unpleasant.

Soon after I hit the trail, which starts with a steep climb up Monte Cucco. It's not on the E1 but despite adding some vertical meters, it is quicker than walking around. And the views: fantastic. However, I can only enjoy them for a couple of moments, before the clouds are engulfing the mountain. Without tracks nor markings, finding my way down is a bit tricky. Eventually, I make it and continue my way south. Markings are mostly non-existent and I have to rely on my phone. With a few exceptions, the tracks are generally in good condition. It's a continuous up and down and I am amazed with what my body can achieve.

Highlight of today: the walking along shallow, grassy ridges. In fact, they are so shallow it feels like on a high plateau. A bit like the stretch between the Nordkapp and Kautokeino in northern Norway. It's a spectacular walk through Alpine spring with millions of flowers in all different colors and sizes. It's a pleasure to walk and I wish it would never end. My plan camping up there gets literally blown away by the wind. So I make my way down, where I quickly find a spot for the night.

Tomorrow is a comparably short day to Colfiorito, where a hotel room with a hot shower is awaiting me. 

Monte Castellaccio to Punta Sassopecoraro

Distance: 45km

After yesterday's experience, I am a bit weary when it comes tracks leading nowhere. So today when, shortly after leaving my camp, a sign posts shows directly into the undergrowth, without any clear path visible, I decide on taking back roads instead today. Adds a bit of distance but it saves my nerves. Therefore, there's really not much to tell about today's hike. A mix of forest, farmland and small settlements. All of them looking run down a bit. While roadwalk means good progress, it's also hard on the body. I feel stiff, when I reach Scheggia. After 11 hours in the hot sun, I treat myself to an ice cream and refill 5 liters of water, before tackling the last climb, leading me into the Monte Cucco Regional Park. As I climb higher, the views become spectacular. I find myself a spot to camp. Not many suitable places but eventually I get lucky. It's windy though but after being on the trail for 13 hours, I walked enough. Enough water but too much wind to cook. Oh well, so a cold dinner it is. Anyway, the views easily make up for it. 

Bivacco Paolo Massi to Monte Castellaccio

Distance: 35km

As expected, I leave the bivacco well rested. It's a magnificent start into day, as I follow a beautiful track through Beech forest, wild garlic on both sides and great vistas every now and then. Soon enough though, the track gets steeper and overgrown. Hiking gets tiring. After Bocca Trabaria, the track eventually completely disappears in the forest. I check the map, GPS. Should I return to Bocca Trabaria and find another route or should I just push on, bush bashing. I decide for the latter, which in hindsight turns out to be one of the worst decisions taken on any of my hiking trips. Long story short, I end up in steep slope and dense bush, legs bloody, shorts torn. I make it out obviously, otherwise I wouldn't be writing this blog, but the experience broght me close to my limits. Especially mentally. Being completely lost or stuck in the bush. The ticks didn't help. 

Anyway, after being back on terra firma, I completely undress, check for ticks and need a couple of minutes to wind down. 

From there it's mostly forestry roads and farm tracks all the way. Muddy at first, firm and rocky later. The hike actually turns out rather nice. 

Best experience however, and a well needed motivation booster, was in at Bocca Serriola, where I an old man, sitting in front of Bar La Cima, approaches me with some beans. Despite not speaking the same language, we somehow manage to understand each other. As I am running out of water (water supply h really is challenging, with no water source for nearly 80km) I asked him if I could refill my 3  bottles. He leads me into the bar, fills them up and even hands me out a 4th 1.5l bottle. Very kind! 

While having a coffee and ice cream, I have a lovely chat with the (I guess) owner's son attending the bar.  Well rested, I continue my hike. The terrain is changing. Drier, less dense forrest. A welcome change. Since my feet start hurting and I shortly after a nice camp spot, I decide to call it a hiking day. An intense day. Which tought me a lesson. When in doubt, better retreat your steps. I know, easier said than done. But the next time I will be in such a situation, I will certainly remember this day. 

Passo Serra to Bivacco Paolo Massi

Distance: 35km 

Rain, thunder, rain... It was pouring down well into the night. While my tent kept me from getting soaked, all the water still left my stuff damp. Once the rain stopped, I got woken up by a "sniff, sniff, sniff" sound. Sounded like a cow eating grass. I'm quite sure it wasn't a cow. Probably a wild boar. Maybe a bear... I will never know. After a "shhhh" from my side, the animal ran away into the night. 

After this eventful but not very restful night, I hit the trail shortly before six. The trail is a mess, as I make my way down towards Verghereto. Fallen trees, mud, slippery clay. Rough. Not exactly what I like to start my day with. 2 hours and 5 kilometers later, I finally reach the bottom. From then onwards it's a mix of road and (more pleasant) tracks. I pass several villages, some busy, some completely deserted. 

After the rough start, I'm not able to fully recover for most of the day. I feel stiff, powerless. Still, I keep on going. Fredy, with whom I exchange a voice message, suggest me to stop for a coffee. While I initially dismiss the idea, I quickly change my mind as I pass by an inviting looking Café on Passo di Viamaggio. 

While enjoying an espresso and a piece of cake, I check for places to stay for the night. Google maps shows a bivacco not to far away and right along E1. Perfect! 

Well rested and motivated, I tackle the last 500 vertical meters climb to Monte dei Frati. After an initially quite rough and super steep part, the track through Beech forest becomes a pleasure to walk, I'm flying toward the top. 

Like yesterday evening, the sky looks grim again, smell of rain is in the air. Therefore, I'm delighted, when I spot the cute, little hut. 2 beds, a table. My favorite kind of hut. 

It's just before 1800. An early finish. Plenty of time to make myself comfortable and enjoy the hut. 

Fiera dei Poggi to Passo Serra

Distance: 40km

Right after finishing writing yesterday's blog and putting my phone away, I fell asleep. A deep, well needed sleep. A bear could have eaten my food supply and I wouldn't have noticed it.

Well rested, I pack my stuff and hit the trail just after 06:00. Weather wise another picture perfect hiking day. Also the tracks I walk on are an improvement compared to yesterday.

I spend the day mainly walking through beech forest. Yet, sometimes I can catch some nice views of the scenery around. To my surprise, I bump into several other hikers, who apparently also make use of the lovely weather.

Progress is good. While checking for ticks regularly slows me down, bending down to check is also a good stretching exercise. Well, at least I try to think that way. Stay positive...

For this stage, I don't really have a plan where to spend the night. Once past Badia Prataglia I start looking for suitable camp spots. A challenge! I keep on walking for more than 10 kilometers until I find something more or less suitable. Basically on the trail. Doesn't matter. There won't be anyone passing through. Just after I finish pitching my tent, it's starts dripping, then pouring. A massive thunderstorm out of nowhere. Good timing!  Unfortunately, no time for cooking dinner. 

The thunderstorm cell seems stationary right above me. Lightning and thunder keep making me flinch while writing this blog. Not exactly pleasant but not much I can do. It will pass. Eventually. 

Passo del Giogo to Fiera dei Poggi

Distance: 30km

40 hours without sleep. I'm so, so ready for bed, or sleeping bag I should rather write. Hence, I will keep it short.

The bus ride to Florence has less delay than expected. After an uneventful ride, I get off the bus only 15 minutes late. With the tram ticket already on my phone, I can hope right into it.  Destination: Florence central train station. There, I board a train to Sieve San Piero. Again a 10 minutes delay. My 10 minutes connection to my bus to Passo del Giogo is basically gone. Luckily, this bus is also delayed by a couple of minutes, so I barely make it.

Just before 0900, I'm back on the pass. Already exhausted from all these delays. In hindsight, it might have been a bit less stressful if I arrived a day earlier. 

The pass with its ristorante is still looking deserted. Good for me, as I can use one of the tables to quickly repack.

Then I'm back on the trail! After exactly 8 months. It's perfect hiking weather. Sunny, around 20 degrees Celsius, a light breeze.

The trail: well it continues as it ended last year. Plenty of forest, overgrown in parts but generally easy to walk. This time though it's a lot wetter, muddier. And then the ticks. While I was lucky enough not to encounter any last year, today, well, I wasn't so lucky and got my fair share of ticks. A bummer, really, as they somewhat ruined an other wise quite nice day. 

9 hours of walking. 30 kilometers. My body feels ready, fit. My mind... Not just yet. My thoughts kept wandering around aimlessly. Anyway, I'm too tired to go into detail. I rather catch up on some sleep. Getting my priorities straight. The camp spot I picked is nothing fancy. Nicely sheltered inside a picnic area,hopefully allowing for some good, well needed sleep. 

8 hours until I will board a local train to Zurich. I just came out of the shower. Probably the last one for at least 10 days. As always before embarking on a new adventure, a certain tension becomes noticeable. The psychological and physiological challenge, the unknown,... It's always the same,uncomfortable feeling. I don't think I will ever get used to it. 

In Zurich, I will catch a Flixbus to Florence and then 2 other overland busses to Passo del Giogo. If everything goes according to plan, I should be back on the trail tomorrow Monday before lunch time. 

If... I'm not very confident I'll be making it there on time. Maybe I should give the Italian public transport system a bit more credit. But I am realistic.

Despite reading through trail notes and checking maps, I honestly still don't know what exactly to expect. How well marked and maintained will the tracks be? Do they even exist? What about animals, like wild dogs, bears, ticks, water sources? The snow situation in the Abruzzo mountains? Many open questions... Also in regards of the recent floodings just northeast of where I will be walking. 

Luckily, I was able to gather some hiking experience in the Appenine last autumn. Still, as I make my way down south, still following the Appenine (sometimes along E1, sometimes along Sentiero Italia), I'm quite certain that the characteristics of the hike will  keep changing.

For this stage, I have not set a goal. It's a rather quick stage though as I have to be back at work early July. That leaves me a bit more than a month to walk. 30 kilometers a day seem realistic. Add 2 maybe 3 zero days and you'll end up with 1000 kilometers. Just a rough estimate. The many unknowns... It would take be down somewhere slightly northeast abeam Naples and leave me with another 1000-1500 kilometers to Sicily. But that's the future. Thinking too much about it doesn't really help my tension.

For now, I'll enjoy the sunny and mild Sunday afternoon as good as I can, maybe watching a movie, and then eventually hit the road to Italy later tonight. 

Croce di Geppe to Passo del Giogo

Distance: 35km

A freezing cold night. But after eating a lot of food yesterday and wearing everything I have, I wasn't feeling especially cold. In fact I had such a wonderfully deep sleep. A rare thing when camping.

Getting out of my sleeping bag and especially packing the dripping wet tent is a different story. Highly unpleasant as my fingers are getting numb. Anyway, eventually I am on my way. Similar to yesterday, trail wise. But unlike yesterday, I feel highly motivated. At least mentally. Physically, well not so much. My body needs some rest. 

My last day on E1 this year. From the German-Danish border well into Italy. While walking, memories keep crossing my mind. Many wonderful places, encouters. It has not always been a walk in the park though. Especially during the last part across Northern Italy, I was struggling finding my motivation at times. 

Time flies and after 10 final, surprisingly demanding kilometers, I reach Passo del Giogo - the end. For now at least. How do I feel you might wonder? Emotionless, really. I guess I am just tired, the sun already low on the horizon. The emotions probably will follow later. As it's getting cold, I quickly continue for another kilometer up Monte Altuzzo, where I am planning to camp - and it is a lovely site to camp. A flat, grassy top and fantastic views. A worthy place for my last night.

As I watch the sun slowly disappearing while eating my porridge with an extra serving of chocolate (somehow I have to celebrate, don't I?), the nice feeling of satisfaction overcomes me. Tutto posto - all good! 

Pracchia to Croce di Geppe

Distance: 35km

A single stag kept roaring throughout the night. Yet, overall I got quite a descent sleep.

There's really not much to write about the trail today. Plenty of 4WD and ATV tracks in the first half of the day, proper hiking trails with more Ups and downs than in the morning. Most of the hike is in the forest. Only the last bit leading over a rocky slope, offers some decent views. It's also where I pitch my tent. In fact, I even go a bit off track until I find something that pleases me.

After the last couple of days, which have been a bit like fireworks, today, in contrast, has been a pretty down-to-earth day. Also my body feels like a deflated balloon. No energy left. I felt it especially during the climbs. It was hard work. 

So it fits nicely that, two weeks ago, I made the decision that tomorrow Thursday (maybe Friday if I am too slow) should be my last day on the trail this year.  183 days so far on E1 all together. Hald a year. However, there are other things in life than hiking. In fact I will meet up with a friend in Firenze and do a bit of sightseeing and other stuff that I

missed out on the trail. Like eating my first Gelato in Italy. I know, unbelievable. Isn't it.

But let's not get carried away. Tomorrow's another day. And it's a tough one.